REI Community
Parking Lot Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5 Easy Pieces T,TR 
Book of Eli, The T,TR 
Legion of Decency T,TR 
Road Not Taken, The T,TR 

5 Easy Pieces 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Project
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 176
Submitted By: matthew ritter on Sep 22, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The first "easy" piece

Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons MORE INFO >>>

Description 

5 Easy Pieces is classic Jack Nicholson movie about a talented pianist frustrated with a life of mediocrity...oops, sorry.
This is a gorgeous route up the front face/left arête with 5 distinct bouldery cruxes, some of which may induce a heart flutter though the gear is good. As are the rests. This magnificent piece of granite wrastlin' is marred only by the fact that many of the high quality cruxes can be avoided by climbing around the corner to easier ground(The Book of Eli). That makes this an eliminate of sorts but so be it! It's a sensible eliminate that simply climbs an amazing face.

Climb to the alcove ledge of Legion of Decency but instead of mantling reach left into awesome left hand side-pulls. Climb thru a micro seem that leads to a good rest beneath a roof/arête. Resist the urge to climb around the corner onto the slab. Get gear and bust some rad moves to clear the lip and gain a tiny overlap/corner/roof. And a jug which gains access to a no hands ledge. From here, step right to the front face and another sweet set of moves to gain the next overlap/overhanging arête. Climb the arête to an awesome ledge.

The safest way to climb the final crux is to keep climbing rather than stopping to belay here. Leave the comfortable ledge being sure to place some solid pro. Mantle onto a small ledge on the arête's left side. Stick your neck out for some tiny gear in a horizontal, commit to the vertical face, place more gear, and decipher fun techy face moves to a welcome jug. Make one more set of moves to gain another sweet ledge, a great place to belay. The rest is a victory romp.

Location 

Bent Buttress

Protection 

Tiny wires, single rack to hands. Doubles of small cams


Comments on 5 Easy Pieces Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About