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Bee Gorge North Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
14: Pingheng ("Balance") S 
1: Fushi: Pumice T 
21: Unnamed: ["From Choss to Stardom"] T 
2: Chayidian: "Kinda Poor" T 
3: Unnamed [“Sharp n’ Airy”] S 
4: Unnamed ["Smile for the Camera... in the Shadow of the Great Wall"/SftC" T,S 
5: Digua: "Sweet Potato" T,S 
7: Banzhang: "Squad Leader" S 

5: Digua: "Sweet Potato" 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: CMDI, 2007
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 108
Submitted By: RyderS on May 30, 2013

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A look down the first half of "Digua" (&...

Description 

An unnecessarily bolted corner climb towards the east end of the north wall. As a trad route, this line is quite enjoyable. The crux is slightly awkward, but protectable; it will probably get less awkward as more trad climbers do this route.

Climb the left-leaning, right-facing corner that widens about halfway up (could be cleaned a little bit here). The first crux is getting through the widening section of the crack.

Follow the re-constricting crack up until you are beneath an obvious roof. Protect (bomber cam placements above your head...) and move out right onto the face (second crux), and climb up to the anchor. The bolts are used to lower off the route. The multipitch tree anchor for “Kinda Poor” is just above on the ledge. You can continue upward or lower off.

Protection 

A full rack including nuts, tricams, 6-8 single-length runners, 2 double-length runners, and active pro/friends from red C3 up to #4 Camalot. It's China, so you always have to expect a surprise when it comes to climbing in a country where the sport is so new.


Photos of 5: Digua: "Sweet Potato" Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up to the exit roof on "Digua"/&...
Looking up to the exit roof on "Digua"/&...
Rock Climbing Photo: A look down the first half of "Digua" (&...
A look down the first half of "Digua" (&...

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