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5. Devonshire

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Cream on My Scone TR 
Devonshire Pillar T,TR 
Devonshire Ridge TR 
Double Puzzle TR 
High Side TR 
Hung Like Benedict TR 
Major John Andre TR 

5. Devonshire Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 556'
Location: 41.14532, -74.16471 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 676
Administrators: SMarsh, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: kenr on Dec 24, 2015
Forecast:
Tonight

49°
Saturday

76° | 49°
Sunday

73° | 53°
Monday

73° | 58°
Tuesday

70° | 54°
Wednesday

64° | 46°
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BETA PHOTO: Overview of Routes - Devonshire A - Double Puzzle ...

Description 

Interesting slab climbing with interesting flakes and overlaps.

Most routes are top-roped, but some have been led.

Top Rope: Setting up top anchor for top anchor works best with a static line, and with placing the anchor well down below the top of the cliff.

To set up a top anchor, traverse right (East) under the steep loose gully and under the base of the Jumble Hotel crag, almost to the base of the Puzzle Palace crag. Scramble up the steep left-trending gully (careful of loose sections) on the left side of Puzzle Palace, then horizontal Left (SouthWest) along the top of the cliff.

warning: The rock on and around this cliff has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Getting There 

Devonshire is about 170 feet ENE from Tower Wall, or about 130 feet WSW from Puzzle Palace.
Between Shadow Castle wall and Jumble Hotel crag.

Because of difficult vegetation, the easiest method of approach is to first go to the base of Puzzle Palace cliff, then walk about 130 feet WSW to the base of Devonshire. More detail ...

From the Powerlinez trailhead, go first to to Tower Wall (GPS latitude longitude approx N41.1450 W74.1652), then walk ENE roughly flat 360 feet. Then at (N41.1454 W74.1641) turn Left up steep hill 130 feet NW then W to base of Puzzle Palace wall (N41.14545 W74.16445), then 130 feet WSW roughly horizontal to base of Devonshire.

. (The steep Puzzle Palace access trail can also be reached from the trailhead without first going to Tower Wall, by instead first following a gentler dirt road N to (GPS lat long ~ N41.1462 W74.1619), then SW up gentle a ways, then up steep NW + W).

Climbing Season

For the Powerlinez area.

Weather station 2.1 miles from here

7 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',3],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For 5. Devonshire
Rock Climbing Photo: High Side route topo

High Side 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  New York : Powerlinez : ... : 5. Devonshire
Interesting sequence. If only it were longer.Start on a sloping ledge about fifteen feet higher than the bottom of the main south face of the Devonshire slab. Or could use the same start as the route to the left, but go farther right along the right edge of the slab.Up through the broken cracks to the top.Variation easier+interesting: About halfway up, make a wide step right. warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still b...[more]   Browse More Classics in New York

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