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(5) Anglin's Buttress

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(5) Anglin's Buttress Rock Climbing 


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Location: 44.3765, -121.13371 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,789
Administrators: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Dave McRae on Dec 6, 2016
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  • Description 

    Anglin's Buttress is a striking, 350 foot, South West facing wall named after legendary Oregon adventure climber, Jim Anglin. It hosts two 5.11 sport climbs to the top, as well as a 5.12 base route and a couple neglected trad routes. All sport routes start from a common ledge, accessed by a bolt protected 5.4 move. Jim Climbing (.11b) is predominantly 5.10 climbing, with a short 5.11 boulder problem on the third pitch. In contrast, Anglin n' Danglin' (.11b) features sustained 5.11 difficulties for the first 300 feet. All anchors sport the latest Metolius steel 'biners for an easy descent from any pitch with a single, 70 meter rope

    Getting There 

    Anglin's buttress is the next tower to the right/East of the Monument. Scramble up the main gully between the Monument and Anglin's for five minutes.

    Climbing Season

    For the (v) Monument Area area.

    Weather station 7.6 miles from here

    3 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',2],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


    Featured Route For (5) Anglin's Buttress
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jazmyn on the first pitch.  Anglin n' Danglin&...

    Anglin n' Danglin' 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  Oregon : Smith Rock : ... : (5) Anglin's Buttress
    Anglin n' Danglin' is a fully bolted sport climb with sustained 5.11 climbing and mind blowing position. Start at the bolted anchor on the left side of the main ledge.P1. 5.11a. 30 feet of chossy 5.6 leads to better rock in a left facing corner. 8 bolts. 90 feet.P2. 5.11b. Sustained stemming in a right facing corner. Avoid the obvious descent anchor above the ninth bolt, and step left to a hidden anchor at a good stance. 9 bolts. 80 feet.P3. 5.10d. Stra...[more]   Browse More Classics in Oregon

    Photos of (5) Anglin's Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: The Monument and Anglin's Buttress
    The Monument and Anglin's Buttress
    Rock Climbing Photo: Anglin's Buttress from the main trail.
    Anglin's Buttress from the main trail.

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