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YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 7,295
Submitted By: Matt Weisman on Jul 31, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (159)
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Marley getting sendy


A great route, and one that actually holds the .12a rating.

Endurance is the name of the game; rest properly and you will send. The route stays fairly consistent the whole way; hold on.


to the right of lunchabes


10-12 draws

Photos of 49 Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "49" - Good sustained pump! Overhung wal...
"49" - Good sustained pump! Overhung wal...
Rock Climbing Photo: jugs for days...
jugs for days...

Comments on 49 Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rob Duncan
From: Salt Lake City
Aug 22, 2009

long! really good
By Rob Man
From: SLC UT
Jul 28, 2010

this is one of the best on the wall for sure and good at the grade!
By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Jul 26, 2011

I think that this one "holds the 12a grade" because it used to be 12b! But seriously, it is quite a bit harder than Lunchables, Groundwork, Afterglow, etc.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 3, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Thought this route was technically easier than Zoaster, but perhaps a little more thuggy.
By BrianWS
Aug 2, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Rests galore! Super fun moves on the giant cobbles about halfway up. On par with other Maple 12a's, but pretty soft by most standards.
By Mark Rolofson
Jan 24, 2015
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

It has now been over 6 years since last visited Maple Canyon & redpointed this route in Oct. 2008. I didn't disagree with its original .12b rating and
that year I redpointed 78 routes between .12a & .13a. The hardest moves on 49 were only .11c but my god what a pump! True endurance climbing. Unlike most .12bs with multiple .12a cruxes or a real .12b crux, this climb is a jug
haul that overhangs 25 ft. in 80 ft. There are 10 protection bolts and the only great rest is on a stance below a final bulge at last bolt. Not a no hands rest but the feet are on a shelf. Definently harder that Lunchables or Zoaster Toaster.
By James Cranston
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 25, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

so good...
By lech
Feb 22, 2016
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Great route and solid at the grade in my opinion. This route is more about open hand holds. They are jugs but open hand jugs.
By James Cranston
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 5, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Finally sent last month. Clutch right knee before the big slopey cobble that seems to be the RP crux for most people. No move is hard, just sport climbing technique to keep the pump clock from counting down. One of my favorite 5.12a's ever.

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