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YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Kelly Brown
Page Views: 330
Submitted By: chummer on Oct 29, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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This mega line is the only route on the intimidating Bee Wall. Fun jug hauling gets you to a thin section on the face. If you go left here it's around .11b, go right and its solid .12. The choice is yours. Rest up on the ledge then crank layback and crack moves to one more thin move to the anchor.

The route continues up the super steep headwall and tiered roofs. The rest of the climb is .11d or so. This is a killer adventuresome route that deserves more traffic. The first "pitch" or half of the route seemed about .12b to me although the guide gives it 12d.


Dead center of the Bee wall. Starts in a short right facing corner next to an old cedar tree.


16 draws for the full pitch. 70m rope (tie a knot!) required. However, if you do this as a single pitch you might consider clipping into the mid point anchor and pulling your rope through the draws. Rope drag up high would be terrible. Either way I'd put a double long on the anchor if you keep going out the roofs. Use lots of long (shoulder length) runners especially for the 2nd pitch.

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By Blake Cash
From: Chattanooga, TN
Jan 22, 2013

So I take it this route isn't 35 feet if you need a 70m rope?

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