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Middle Earth
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
42 T,TR 
A Flake Called Lee T,TR 
Black Planet T,TR 
Bloodguard T,TR 
Butterfingers T,TR 
Butterfingers Right T,TR 
Cave Route, The T 
Cording T,TR 
For Short People Only T,TR 
Go Ballistic T,TR 
Hyper-Gamma Spaces TR 
I Am a Cam TR 
In Your Head T 
Rhythm Roof TR 
Seven Wishes T,TR 
Shadow Warrior T,TR 
Space Dwarves TR 
Sugarloaf Arete T,TR 
White Quartz Wielder T,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

42 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 110
Submitted By: Andy Weinmann on Sep 28, 2015  with updates from Christopher Peterson

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  • Seasonal Bird Nesting Closure MORE INFO >>>
  • Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Start to the right of the cave under a roof and a right leaning crack that goes out to the arête. Follow the crack and turn the corner onto the face. Move up to beneath a small overhang and work out left around the overhang. Cruise up easier rock to the top.

    Often overlooked but a great route that protects fairly well, though the moves left around the overhang will have you above your gear a bit.

    Location 

    Right of the cave where I Am A Cam is located.

    Protection 

    Cams and nuts to 1". Only reason for anything bigger is for an anchor at the top if you want them.


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