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411 Southwest T 
A Bridge Too Far T 
Astro Glide S 
Avalon T 
Billie Bear Cranks the Rad T 
Bloodguard T 
Blotter is my Spotter T 
Brokedown Palace T 
Burning Down the House T 
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California Dreaming T 
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Deadwood Express 
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Harkness variation T 
Jerry's Kids T 
La Vaca Solitaria T 
Lack of Enthusiasm S 
Livin' the Dream T 
Man Without a Planet T 
McCarthy West Face (Variant) T 
McCarthy West Face/Hong T 
Mr. Clean T 
Mystery Express S 
No Holds for Bonzo T 
One Way Sunset T 
Park Politics T 
Scottfree T 
Some Like it Hot T 
Spank The Monkey T 
Steal Away S 
Tulgey Wood T 
Up In Smoke T 
Way Layed T 
Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) T 

411 Southwest 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Dave Rone, George Kremer: June 1991
Page Views: 400
Submitted By: Dave Rone on Jun 9, 2012

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June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


411 Southwest starts one crack to the left of the Direct Southwest route. Start up this crack and then traverse left past a bolt to the next crack. Now use the crack, and edges and flakes on the face and arete to the left, to climb past 4 bolts (first crux). Continue up placing small gear until you reach the next bolts, passing a two-bolt anchor on the right. Climb past these bolts (second crux) and then continuous 5.10/5.11 climbing will get you to the upper anchor, a bolt and a fixed pin.

All in all the climbing is thin and sustained with few good rests. Beware of a loose flake on the left, near the top of the route.


411 Southwest is the 1st crack to the left of the Direct Southwest route. You will see the first bolt to the left of this crack.

If you brought 2 ropes, one rappel will get you to the base of the route. Otherwise, one rope rappel to the intermediate anchors, and another rappel to the base.

You must climb a 120', 5.7 crack to the top of the Southwest Buttress to access the route. This crack will require a selection of medium stoppers and medium to large TCU's for gear. There is a two-bolt anchor at the top of this pitch.


This pitch has 9 bolts (including the intermediate anchor). It will also require small-medium stoppers, a two sets of RP's, and a two sets of C3's or the equivalent, and Friends to #2.5.

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