REI Community
Madness Cave
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Flour Power S 
Forty Ounces of Justice S 
Madness, The S 
Omaha Beach S 
Pushing Up Daisies S 
Transworld Depravity S 

Forty Ounces of Justice 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

Type:  Sport, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
Page Views: 7,364
Submitted By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Oct 29, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
a sequence of this pumpfest

Private Property MORE INFO >>>


Pull on some perpetually damp holds to get started. Then continue up steep jugs to a great rest on a shelf, try not to fall asleep. After you've recovered or get bored, which ever comes first, head up into the steep wall above. There is an early crux involving a long move off of a crimp. Better holds continue out the overhang to a good rest on another shelf. Another hard section off of the shelf leads to finger buckets up the final headwall.

This route has harder moves but better rests than BOHICA. Better than the guide book makes it out to be.


The furthest right route in the Madness Cave. Starts off of a stack of rocks on a damp jug that points left.


Bolts to a bolted anchor.

Photos of Forty Ounces of Justice Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A friend working out his next moves.
A friend working out his next moves.
Rock Climbing Photo: Trying not to fall asleep at the rest on 40 oz of ...
Trying not to fall asleep at the rest on 40 oz of ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Opening Moves
Opening Moves
Rock Climbing Photo: High on 40 oz of Justice
High on 40 oz of Justice

Comments on Forty Ounces of Justice Add Comment
Show which comments
By LeeAB Brinckerhoff
From: ABQ, NM
Oct 29, 2009

I lowered off of this with a 70m rope that had had both ends cut and was about 65 meters. I had plenty of rope left. I was told that you could lower with a 60m if you are careful, tie a knot in the end and be ready to have someone toss the climber a rope if they don't make it to the ground.
By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
Nov 29, 2010

60m is fine. I think this route is way under-rated. Perhaps not as good as the other Madness Cave rtes, but IMO this is the best 13a at the Lode* (*I haven't done Snooker, done all the others).
By Mike Anderson
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 21, 2011

Very good route, I think better than the beloved BOHICA even. For one thing, it goes to the top of the wall, which BOHICA does not, and it has a much longer run through the steepest part of the cave. In fact, this has to be one of the coolest 13a's anywhere.

Furthermore, the original beta was to stick clip the first bolt and winch past the wet rock, so if this route is being docked quality points because of wet rock, the criticism is misplaced.
By LeeAB Brinckerhoff
From: ABQ, NM
May 10, 2011

If you're supposed to winch start then it does not start at the bottom of the wall so saying that it goes to the top makes it better than BOHICA just does not make sense. Though for me really it is the amount of glue on the route that detracts, don't get me wrong it is still a great route though and I would do it again.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About