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(4) Star Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Asteroid Dust (Morning Star Extension) T 
Cry of the Gerbil  S 
Dark Star T 
Daytime Drama S 
Freon T 
Johnny and the Mellonheads T 
Last Days T 
Left Wing T,S 
Lethal Dose T,TR 
Levitate T 
Mantra T 
Mantra Extension T 
Morning Star T 
Neutron Star T 
St. Paddee's Day T 
Tim S 
Turning Point T 

(4) Star Wall Rock Climbing 

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Page Views: 4,852
Administrators: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Sep 27, 2006


59° | 39°

66° | 42°

69° | 44°

70° | 48°

73° | 49°
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The full-height left side of this wall is home to some of the most classic difficult cracks in the gorge, including the classics Dark Star (5.11d/12a), Neutron Star (5.12a), and Morning Star (5.10c).

Getting There 

This is the next wall upstream from the Catwalk cliff.

Climbing Season

For the West Side area.

Weather station 8.2 miles from here

17 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in (4) Star Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for (4) Star Wall:
Mantra   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   
Morning Star   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Left Wing   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport   
Dark Star   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Neutron Star   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Cry of the Gerbil    5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Johnny and the Mellonheads   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in (4) Star Wall

Featured Route For (4) Star Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: The old anchor. Pin was better than the bolt which...

Neutron Star 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  Oregon : Smith Rock : ... : (4) Star Wall
Awesome gorge climbing, a typical "innie" between Dark Star and Morning Star. Begin with funky stem/smear moves and a high hand-foot match protected by small gear to a good stance on a rail. Clip the first pin, breath, and fight crimps, locks, and smears to a slopy block at the bolt. Finesse and power your way through a deadpoint crux and play find the kneebar. Clip three more pins as you fight through technical smears and awkward bulging slots. Try to catch your breath at the last pin before a ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Oregon

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