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4. Shadow Castle

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Barbican TR 
Cleft Bastion TR 
East Bastion TR 
Keep, The T,TR 
Leaking Fissure TR 
Moat, The T,TR 
Portcullis TR 

4. Shadow Castle Rock Climbing 


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Location: 41.14529, -74.16477 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 529
Administrators: SMarsh, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: kenr on Dec 28, 2015
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BETA PHOTO: Shadow Castle sector: A - Cleft Bastion B - Portc...

Description 

South-facing (but shaded) wall on the upper cliff a ways northeast from Tower Wall. Just right of the Albion sector and just left of the Devonshire slab. There is a little "guard tower" (the Cleft Bastion) at the top of the cliff above the corner at the left side of the wall; to its right usually a wet area in the left center of the wall; and another (higher) little "guard tower" (the Keep) at the top of the right half of the wall, just left from above the obvious Moat gully; then farther right another obvious gully is the approximate boundary between Shadow Castle sector and the Devonshire slab sector.

warning: The rock on and around this cliff has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Getting There 

Because of difficult vegetation as of 2015, the easiest approach is to first go to the base of the Puzzle Palace crag, then walk about 165 feet left horizontally WSW under steep left-trending gully and Jumble Hotel crag, then under another steep gully and Devonshire slab, to the base of Shadow Castle.

How to get to Puzzle Palace: See detailed instructions in the first Comment on the Puzzle Palace area page.

Top-Roping: To set up a top anchor, traverse right (East) under the base of the Devonshire slab, and continue past a steep loose gully and under the Jumble Hotel crag, almost to the base of the Puzzle Palace crag. Scramble up the steep left-trending gully (careful of loose sections) on the left side of Puzzle Palace, then horizontal Left (SouthWest) along the top of the cliff.

Climbing Season

For the Powerlinez area.

Weather station 2.1 miles from here

7 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',3],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For 4. Shadow Castle

Cleft Bastion 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  New York : Powerlinez : ... : 4. Shadow Castle
Variety of different climbing situations.Up the corner, then step right onto the face. Up that into the alcove under the obvious roof. Finish through the roof.. (Perhaps the roof can go at 5.8 after you find the sequence, and the middle face section can be done less than 5.8 if grab or step on tree branches.But if you're going to climb the middle face only rock holds, and pull the roof on-sight with no hangs ... need to have your full 5.9 game on).. (If the middle section is ...[more]   Browse More Classics in New York

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Rock Climbing Photo: routes overview Shadow Castle sector A - Cleft Bas...
BETA PHOTO: routes overview Shadow Castle sector A - Cleft Bas...

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