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4-Person Multi-Pitch Trad Climb with 3 First Timers
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May 21, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading "Clocher - clochetons Traverse" ...
Either climb it as a single party, or you need two people who can judge whether the (sparse) gear is good.

Otto's is pretty mellow. I vote you do it as one big group. Spectacular location!
Doug Hemken
Joined Oct 1, 2004
5,783 points
Mar 4, 2014
Tanner Wixom wrote:
...I then am supposed to lead through the already placed pro a la sport climbing then belay my partner up...

This is the truly stupid part of the idea.
1. As you mentioned, what if the gear becomes loose or the 2nd (inexperienced) climber kicks a piece out?
2. As you mentioned, you've never climbed trad and don't have the ability to properly judge a piece.
3. What if you don't see a piece of gear, you'll have a much longer and dangerous run out?
4. Sounds like he's a better climber than you. You may have to "test" placements that he would never fall on.
5. What if you can't get past a section? With a top rope, you can cheat to keep the party together. Better have an escape plan if you can't get past something and don't have the gear to build a mid-pitch anchor.
6. You're going to be stuck waiting while the 4th (inexperienced) climber has to clean.

The idea of leaving trad gear behind to "sport climb" with shouldn't even be done by any climbers. Either the 3rd person places their own protection on lead, or climbers 2-4 top rope it as a single party.

I would question any trip being lead by someone who thinks this is a good idea.
Joined Feb 25, 2014
0 points
Mar 4, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Wunsch's Dihedral
It's doable if your buddy knows his stuff. If you're going to commit to it with four people bring 3 ropes. Make sure you can lead belay and have your buddy with the most experience lead. Top rope the next guy who tags another rope. As guy number two climbs have him unclip the gear from his top rope and clip the tag line. When he gets to the anchor, set up tr with the tag line. Repeat for guy number 3. Have guy number 4 clean the route, ideally the guy with the second most experience. Repeat for 4 pitches. This way everybody unskilled top ropes. Make bomber/equalized 4 piece anchors just to ease the mind of have four people tied in. Be prepared for this to take awhile and have fun. Don Ferris
From Eldorado Springs
Joined Nov 27, 2012
143 points
Mar 4, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: Cold day at Smug's
Who knows, maybe in the last 10 months one of the party has learned to lead?! csproul
From Davis, CA
Joined Dec 3, 2009
355 points
Mar 4, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: urrr
^^LOL That's what I was thinking. People are so eager to bestow their knowledge that they miss little things like this OP was so long ago, odds are they either said fuck it, or did it and survived. Sorry, your sage opportunity has come and gone. don'tchuffonme
Joined Jan 13, 2014
25 points
Mar 4, 2014
Rock Climbing Photo: CoR
How many days were you planning on taking? Make sure you bring bivy gear, a week's worth of food, a backboard, and a sat phone then go for it. rging
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Joined Jul 18, 2011
211 points

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