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4. Main Slab

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Bit Too Short T 
Dharma Initiative, The T 
Direct T 
Eko Slab T 
keystoned T 
Lost in the Sun  T 
Past Dead Ending's.  T 
Rookie Ridge (incomplete) T 

4. Main Slab Rock Climbing 


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Location: 44.18922, -71.39391 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,251
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Sep 23, 2015
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BETA PHOTO: Webster Main Slab Topo

Description 

The "Main Slab" is the slab at the end of the watercourse/gully intercepted by the normal approach path. This is the most frequently climbed slab.

It's a "wide open" slab, both geographically and "geopolitically"...in other words FA's (especially rambling solo FA's) often went unreported, no one seems to care. (Bradley White of Plymouth NH seems to have done a lot in the 1980's)

New lines follow old lines. It's a fine area to "mix and match" pitches from one route with another route. In short, a fine "playground" for the slab climber happy with 5.4 to 5.8.

Getting There 

Take route 302 West from Bartlett. Park at a pull-out on the right (across from the pull-out for Willie's Slide winter ice climb) about 1/2 - 3/4 mile beyond the Willy House. The usual approach from the pull out is to walk back towards Willy House on the road about 0.1 -0.2 Mi (I recently counted 130 guard-rail posts from the parking pull-out.) Just beyond the large-diameter, "singleton" birch, look for a cairn on the road-side (about 15 ft "down slope") with a bit of flagging tape on a small pine. Cross the Saco here [Alt] (bring water-crossing shoes if at all high), then walk straight upslope and pick up a climber's path (orange flagging) that leads south to the big watercourse/gully. Follow this steeply uphill (with some boulders) to the base of the slab and start of the climb "Lost in the Sun". About 45-60 Min.
[Alternatively one can cross the Saco right at the parking pull out. You'll then have to walk down-river in the woods to pick up the trail. This may involve some crossing of the stream's braids.]

If the Saco is too deep to comfortably wade across, go back and take a look at the slab...it's probably too wet to enjoyably climb!

A COMMENT has been posted to the effect that one can hike by parking at the Willey House, walking west ("up-notch" toward Mt Willard) to mile-marker 45.6 (on left side of road), going 2 more "white markers" (on right side of road) and heading down and across the river, and straight up the slope on the other side. I think this is a bit further of a walk on the road.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.1 miles from here

8 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',4],['5.8',2],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in 4. Main Slab

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for 4. Main Slab:
Lost in the Sun    5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 7 pitches, 600'   
Direct   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 7 pitches, 1000'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in 4. Main Slab

Featured Route For 4. Main Slab
Rock Climbing Photo: Direct: The beautiful clean white rock with 5 bolt...

Direct 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  New Hampshire : WM: Crawford Notch : ... : 4. Main Slab
"Direct" climbs between "Lost in the Sun" and "A Bit Short". The START [Var] is the same as "Lost" but moves RIGHT and climbs between a large block and large flake (see Topo/Photo posted to "Main Slab").[Var] There is an alternate start about 30-40 ft up-hill on the right that climbs a slightly fractured crack system (5.5-5.6R), steps left (5.6-5.7) and climbs up and over a 12" overlap. The key feature on this climb is the beautiful 6th pitch (or 5th, depending on how long you make the pit...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Hampshire

Photos of 4. Main Slab Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "Main Slab", "EKO-Slab" is the...
BETA PHOTO: "Main Slab", "EKO-Slab" is the...

Comments on 4. Main Slab Add Comment
Show which comments
By bradley white
From: Bend
Sep 26, 2015
Key Stoned is 'Lost in the Sun' although I didn't climb exactly where the bolts were placed. The climb then went up right in the woods up to the head wall right out of the woods.
Rookie Ridge is the longest slab right side of slab and ascends nearby the cascade. Then ascends the longest buttress hundreds of feet right from the top of the slab.
By Robert Hall
Administrator
From: North Conway, NH
Sep 27, 2015
Bradley,
Thanks for the clarifications. I'll put 'em in. What about "Bore Tide", can you confirm it is on the slab I call "Left Slab"? ...(about 600 yds L of "Lost in the Sun slab"...and about where on that slab?
(I'd correspond directly, but my e-mail server seems to not want to "work" with MtProject.)
Bob Hall

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