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BETA PHOTO: 3AM Handy, 5.11b.
3AM Handy is a route inspired by my girlfriend and Valentine's Day. It ascends the face and prow directly to the left and 1/3 of the way up Apple Cider
There are four ways to start this route. I will describe in more detail what will likely be the most common way to do the route.
Climb the flake up into the small cave on Apple Cider, and place a piece with a runner. Pull out and over the small cave, and head towards the finger crack on the left. Place your 3" piece firmly in the wider crack to keep the rope running smooth. You should be getting nice and warmed up now.
Head left, placing another piece in the finger crack, towards the first bolt. Pull some delicate and balancy moves to get the blood flowing.
Clip the first draw with a runner. Follow the path of least resistance, curving slightly out left and then back in. They do this sometimes. Continue following the bolts to the top. There are a few good spots to rest and take it nice and slow on the way up.
The crux cums as you near the tip of the prow. Find yourself in a very exposed position as you pull over the last bulge and bust it out left to finish on the nice big ledge.
Note: this route can also be done by starting on The Contortionist
, Crimpin' and Pimpin'
, or Chingadero
This is in the Apple Cider
Either start on Apple Cider
or one of those hard AF sporto routes to the left.
If doing the Apple Cider
start, I suggest, in BD C4 sizes, a 0.3, 3, 0.4, all with runners. From there, use 1 runner on the first bolt and 6 more quickdraws to the top.
A 60m rope works just fine.
If linking in from one of the other sport routes, bring draws for that route and a single or double length runner for the anchor plus 5 or 6 more draws to the top.
By Nolan Robertson
Apr 7, 2016
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Linking Crimpin' and Pimpin' into this is a little bit covered in lichen, totally managable though. Long run eveything.
By Fritz N.
From: Durango, CO
Apr 25, 2016
Fun, thought-provoking movement on good stone. A nice addition to the wall. Thanks for bolting this, guys!