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Canyon Entrance
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
30 and Dirty S 
American Girl  S 
Book of Life (aka Book) S 
Born In The U.S.A.  S 
Genesis (aka Face) S 
In the Beginning S 
Red Sea, The S 
Revelations (aka Delusion) S 

30 and Dirty 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Drew Hoch
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring/summer/fall
Page Views: 460
Submitted By: Erik Durgin on May 6, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

This is great climbing on the best chunk of rock in the canyon. It is hands down the best route on the Entrance Wall! Climb perfect blue/grey rock on sidepulls and fat pinches with maybe only 2-3 down-pulling holds on the entire route. The climbing is powerful and engaging from the bottom to the top.

It should be noted that there was an abandoned line of studs (bolts with the hangers taken off) a few feet to the left. The studs were pounded in, and the line was redirected a few feet to the right, keeping it on the steepest and best part of the wall.

Location 

This is the furthest left route on the wall.

Protection 

5 bolts plus fixed anchors.


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By Ben Griffin
From: Durango, CO
May 6, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Drew isn't even thirty yet. The name should probably be "Dirty and Almost Thirty".
By s.price
From: PS,CO
May 26, 2013

Nice ascent. Those studs were left from a pair of routes put in by Jay Petzbolt in the early '90s called Gildenstern & Rosencrantz. These routes never really caught on, and I am glad to see something new. Love the new development.