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3 Wogs 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: FA: Michael Hartrich, Joe Cote, Albert Dow May 1981
Page Views: 494
Submitted By: nhclimber on Jul 16, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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This is the first climb you come to if you follow the traditional approach trail. 3 bolts in a shallow groove mark the climb. Climb the groove to a ledge .10a. Then follow a beautiful hand crack out a flare .7 to the top.


Standard Rack

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By burlap submariner
Mar 4, 2010

first pitch is tricky, the bolts were replaced but the second bolt is much lower than the original second bolt which makes the mantle scary as you would take a nice slider.
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Mar 4, 2010

Hardest .10a I've been on, burlap?
By jason seaver
From: Estes Park, CO
Mar 7, 2010

FA: Michael Hartrich, Joe Cote, Albert Dow May 1981

When did first ascent information become unimportant?
By john strand
From: southern colo
Mar 16, 2010

Nice Jason ! I have been through this over and over.
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Mar 17, 2010

God!!! I fixed it, what more do you want from me!
Just kidding, I try to add FA/FFA/FRA when I can. I don't look at the guides as much and add routes when I get stuck in the office. I thought that I have added credit where credit is due on most of the routes I've added here. Will try to be better in the future
By john strand
From: southern colo
Mar 17, 2010

Oh just pissin'
From: Gilmanton, NH
Sep 5, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This route is shorter than 200', and much shorter than the description in the Webster guide. You can rap from the double bolt anchor at the top of the second pitch to the ground with one 60 meter rope. The aforementioned guide pegs the 1st pitch at .10a and 90' (its more like 40')and the second at 5.7, 120' (which is actually 70').
By L. Hamilton
Sep 14, 2011

10a seems the right grade but I'd add a PG-13 rating to caution leaders -- it stays tricky for 10' above the 2nd bolt, and a fall from up there would be nasty.

The clean corner on the second pitch is "old school" 5.7, awkward in places. Protects well with cams and nuts, although you can see daylight through the crack.

As noted above, you can rap with one 60m from bolt anchors at the top of P2. There's some old tat at the P1 belay not worth clipping.

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