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3. Trailhead Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brother Toad S 
Hemp Seeds Sowed S 
Meltdown S 
Mother Lode T,S 
Other Road, The T,S 
Otis S 
Perpetual Doubt S 
Pirate Mode T,S 
Rad Lad S 
Squid Kid S 
Temporary Change of Season T,S 
Trooper Traverse T 

3. Trailhead Wall Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 10,191'
Location: 39.0726, -106.4513 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 13,829
Administrators: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Aug 23, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: Trailhead Wall and The Bird's Nest. 1. Squid Kid....


Once a variety of routes were listed under Monitor Rock. To help with organization, we'll break these up into separate sections of the wall.

As is probably obvious from the name, this is the section of Monitor Rock that is first encountered as you hike up from CO Hwy 82. There are a terrific bunch of routes located quite conveniently for the climber. Probably best known in the area are The Mother Load and Trooper Traverse which may date back to WWII days. Fine additions have filled in the area.

Routes here include (L->R) off the ground:

A. Matchless, 12-, 2p.
B. Meltdown, 11, 5p, 450', bolts.
C. Rad Lad, 11, 1p, 115', bolts.
D. Squid Kid, 10-, 1p, 120', bolts.
above D. Otis, 11-, 1p, 100', bolts.
E1. The Other Road, 11-, 3p, 300', bolts.
E2. Hemp Seeds Sowed, 11-, 1p, 100', bolts + gear.
F. Brother Toad, 10+, 1p, 100', bolts.
G. Trooper Traverse, 8, 3p.
H. Pirate Mode, 10, 3p, 250', bolts & gear.
I. Mother Lode, 10, 3p, 350', gear.
J. Momentary Lapse of Reason, 11-.
K. Temporary Change of Season, 10, 1p, 100', bolts.

Getting There 

Off CO Hwy 82, park at the parking area at the west side of the crag. Hike up the well-established trail to the west side of Monitor Rock.

Climbing Season

Weather station 7.2 miles from here

12 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in 3. Trailhead Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for 3. Trailhead Wall:
Trooper Traverse   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Squid Kid   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Mother Lode   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 350'   
Pirate Mode   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 275'   
Brother Toad   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Meltdown   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 5 pitches, 450'   
Rad Lad   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in 3. Trailhead Wall

Featured Route For 3. Trailhead Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: This picture was taken right after we got off rapp...

Squid Kid 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  Colorado : Independence Pass : ... : 3. Trailhead Wall
Squid Kid is directly opposite the trail where it meets the rock. There will most likely be someone on it! This is a very popular route, and it's as good as it looks from the ground. Varied climbing past 10 well-positioned bolts gains a ledge with 2 bolts. There is nothing too strenuous, but it is a lot of fun. You will need 2 ropes to get down!Eds. You can identify the route, left of the large trees, with a rightward pointing flake at about 6 bolts up. You can continue with Otis 5....[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Comments on 3. Trailhead Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 8, 2011
Tried the first pitch of Matchless. Pretty stout for 12- as I couldn't even do the moves at the crux. Never could get to the first set of anchors. Nice job, L. Hadfield.
By R Sather
Sep 4, 2014
Regarding the descent if one is doing longer routes like TT and Mother Load: even though there are nice bolts up and down this whole formation, I recommend doing the walk off. If one goes towards the opposite side of the formation once at the top, you will be able to follow different ledges and tiers eventually linking up with a game trail. Continue to follow that down, and it will spit you off around to where the nose and other moderate climbs start. Hope this is helpful! If walking off mother load, one will need to continue up a little ways via a easy corner crack system, and this will set you up basically at the top out of TT.

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