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Hueco: V1 Font: 5

Type:  Boulder, 20'
Original:  Hueco: V1 Font: 5 [details]
Page Views: 3,122
Submitted By: Justin Johnsen on Jan 12, 2012

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The beautiful finger crack 3-star (V1) at Haycock ...


A Haycock classic highball finger crack.


On a side trail off the main Caves Trail. After walking the to Caves Area from either side of Haycock (Hangar 18 or Top Rock), follow a short trail north/uphill from the Caves, until this holy grail of a finger crack shines through the foliage.


Pads, spotters, not a route you want to fall off.

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Rock Climbing Photo: Laying back up 3 Star
Laying back up 3 Star

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By Larry S
From: Easton, Pennsylvania
Oct 15, 2012

You can get too and from this route via the top rock trail between hanger 18 and area 51 easier than from the caves trail. After you re-enter the woods from the brush-field that was clear-cut a few years ago heading towards area 51, walk a few hundred feet and look for white splotches painted on the trees to your right. If you follow these (there is no trail, just bushwacking) and trend a bit left off of them, after about 200 yards, you'll end up at the top of 3 star. It's tough if you've never been there because the climb faces away from you in kind of a pit, you can't see it coming, it is not a large outcrop visable from this approach. You have to downscramble to get to it's base. If you're too far right, you'll end up on looking at a messy down scramble, but if you turn and look left, you can see the face of 3 star about 100 feet away.
By Eric Johns
From: Philadelphia, PA
Feb 17, 2017

Thanks for the navigation tip Larry. I tried unsuccessfully twice to find 3 star from the caves trail, then tried your route and found it right away. The talus fields at haycock can be quite tricky; you can be close to a certain problem you're looking for, but never have line of sight and miss it. 2 minor additions to Larrys post: there are a number of white blazes on the trees in this area, and not in a straight line marking an obvious trail, either. Look for the left-most blazes as you bushwhack downhill. There are a few cairns out there too; they may have marked a trail at one point but it's no longer clear. However, I built a small cairn on top of a prominent pyramidal Boulder within 30 feet of the top of 3 star. Hopefully this cairn will remain for awhile and make it easier to find 3 star from this approach.

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