Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Sax Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
0.1) Do You Think I'm Saxy? S 
1) A Little Spicy!!! S,TR 
2) Body and Soul T,S 
3) Morphine S,TR 
4) Sax-a-holic S,TR 
5) Multiple SAX Partners S,TR 
6) No such THANG as Too Much Sax S,TR 
7) Crack With No Name T,TR 

3) Morphine 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: FA Unknown. FFA Joe Mueller
Page Views: 2,123
Submitted By: Dreez on Oct 11, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
rope set on Morphine

Description 

Start below bolt and go over bolt and straight up using small hand holds above bolt. From first ledge go straight up over bolts. When get to cave, use left side of cave only, stay to immediate right of bolts. Climb over the bolts at the end, can use arete.

Named for a band called Morphine with a great sax section

Prefer no drytooling here. Drytooling destroys routes. Tradition is to use web anchors and trad gear
if you really need to drytool. Bolts are for sport climbers. Let's save these climbs for YOUR kids. Thanks. Dreez

Location 

Route 3, 3rd route on right of wall

Protection 

6 bolts

Equipped by Michael Endrizzi and Joe Mueller


Photos of 3) Morphine Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Route 3
BETA PHOTO: Route 3
Rock Climbing Photo: Rylee charging past the first bolt.
Rylee charging past the first bolt.
Rock Climbing Photo: Route #3   Muskrat Love/Sax Wall  6-27-2010
Route #3 Muskrat Love/Sax Wall 6-27-2010

Comments on 3) Morphine Add Comment
Show which comments
By Eldon Krosch Jr.
May 27, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This was a great 5.9 route from top to bottom. A bit of a crux near the second to last clip before the rings.

Be careful clipping the final bolt before the rings I took a fall while clipping and hit the ledge below the previous clip. I didn't hit it very hard but both feet slammed into the ledge on the long fall.

Other than that none of the other clips seemed to pose much risk outside of the normal falling risk you take anytime you lead sport. It was a quick fun route and great for a aspiring 5.9 sport leader to get some laps in on.
By Jack and family
Jun 8, 2013

Fun stuff!

My daughter noticed some small loose rocks on ledges one and two, mostly on the left side of the route.