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Elevation: 38 ft
GPS: 25.1108, 121.9228
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Nate Ball on Mar 20, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball

Description Suggest change

This section contains routes beginning just after The Traverse and continuing to the Bulletin Board. After crossing The Traverse and stepping up onto the large and slightly tilted platform, Long's Arete rises directly overhead. Passing beneath this and over the "monobridge," Long Lane proper cuts up into the shady, dank cavernous area. Directly in front of you is the Bulletin Board - a mix of 5.8-5.12 sport climbs of varying lengths. Once you drop down towards the bouldery gully below the Whale's Head, you are in Music Hall.

This area, especially the interior of the lane itself, gets the most shade of any area at LD. Combined with the concentration of accessible sport routes, this area is often crowded and noisy. If you get lucky and/or come out on a sunny week day, this can be a great place to get on a bunch of quality bolted lines. Otherwise, it can be like a vacation gym.

Some of the most classic routes here are Dragonslayer, 5.9 trad, just above the monobridge; Family, 11c sport, right side of the lane; Reach For The Sky, 11b sport, back of the lane; Heping, 10c sport, left side of the lane; Golden Gate, 5.8 sport, right side of Bulletin Board; Sky Ladder, 10b sport, left side of Bulletin Board. Most of these sport routes can also be climbed at least partially on trad gear.

Beware of the bolts you are clipping here, as this area contains the oldest stainless steel bolts and one of the most corrosive micro-environments at Long Dong.

Getting There Suggest change

Approach from North Parking Area at Hemei Village. Follow shoreline trail through Puffer's Pass and past The Clocktower. Rock-hop and scramble until you get to The Traverse. Once you have crossed this, you have arrived at Long Lane. Approach time ~20 minutes.

Rain & Shade

Suggest change
All routes get wet in the rain. Long Arete dries quickly, but the Bulletin Board and the Lane proper seep after long periods of rain.

The Lane itself is shaded from 8am-10am, comes back into the sun from 11am-12pm, then goes back into the shade. Bulletin Board goes into the shade around 12pm as well. All other routes are in the sun until late in the afternoon.

28 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Long Lane

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
Golden Gate Slab
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 10
Virtues On A Street Sign
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
Dragonslayer
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
A Dream of White Dragons
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 9
Pocket Overhang
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 11
Zhongxiao
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 20
Sky Ladder
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
Plausible
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
Renai
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
Heping
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 9
Skyhook
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
Inconceivable
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 4
Reach for the Sky
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 5
Rhino Dihedral
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 4
Rated G
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Golden Gate Slab
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Virtues On A Street Sign
 10
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Dragonslayer
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
A Dream of White Dragons
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Pocket Overhang
 9
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Zhongxiao
 11
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Sky Ladder
 20
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Plausible
 6
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Renai
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Heping
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Skyhook
 9
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Inconceivable
 6
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Reach for the Sky
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Sport
Rhino Dihedral
 5
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Rated G
 4
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Long Lane »

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