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3-bolt Arete S,TR 

3-bolt Arete 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, TR, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
Page Views: 1,357
Submitted By: Jeff Beckstrand on Jul 1, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (44)
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Climb up the featured arete to a two bolt anchor. Cool moves, good holds, pretty vertical and so slightly pumpy.


Three quickdraws, dress the bolted anchor to taste.

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By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Aug 24, 2009

Be careful of the flake on the arete at the bottom of the route. It is dangerously loose and about to come off. Handle this crucial route component with care.

The 20' above the flake is secure and enjoyable. Clipping the 3rd bolt is kinda heads up.
By Floyd Hayes
Sep 4, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

My belayer said the flake was moving when I pulled on it. Not much can be done to avoid it unless you start off-route to the left of the arete. I will feel sorry for the last person who gets to climb the flake.
By Tyson Waldron
From: Reno, NV
Sep 24, 2013

That flake is still hanging tough! But yes, it flexes aLOT even climbing very gingerly on it... I think it will still go if and when it does bust, there seem to be enough features around to make it possible, albeit it will probably be in the .11-.11+ range...
By Kalvin
Jul 11, 2014

Did this in May 2014.......Flake is still very flexy but intact... for now.
By Josh Cameron
From: California in my Mind
Feb 1, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Sweet quality rock! I felt clipping the 2nd bolt was more heads up than the 3rd but they're probably both heads up. Haha!

I climbed this a couple years ago with a skier from South Lake. He pulled straight out on that poor flake until my wife and myself started yelling at him "Pull straight down! Not out!" He just looked at us, smiled, and asked "You got me?"
By spilly
Sep 26, 2016

Flake still there! super fun route. 2nd bolt more heady then 3rd for sure.

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