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Crescent Crack Buttress
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3 Amigos T 
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If Looks Could Kill S 
Interplanetary Voyage T 
Journey to the Moon T 
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Less Than Zero T 
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Mexican Crack T 
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Who's On First S,TR 

3 Amigos 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 3,833
Submitted By: Ryan Brough on Mar 21, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (53)
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BETA PHOTO: 3 Amigos (climber just below the crux) with Mexica...

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


Thanks to several recent ascents, this has cleaned up quite a bit. The rock is still gritty and sharp, but it isn't chossy. The vegetation has been removed, making for a more pleasant experience. Climb up the finger crack systems on the right face of the corner. This is a technically challenging and interesting section that can be made easier towards the top by chimneying in the corner. Once safely established on the ledge, sink two pieces before making your move on the heady crux. After all, you don't want to break your ankles. Once in the midst of the crux, you're ankles are in jeopardy, so have your TCUs handy (my ankles are grateful). Lieback, barndoor on a sloper up to a stance and reach for a jam. You're practically done, so hike through the remainder of the crack to the anchors above the bigger ledge. Don't despair if your head won't let you attempt the crux, you can lead up the corner and try the safer top-rope alternative. This route is best climbed in groups of three.


Between Mexican Crack and Grunting Gringos, on the right face of the corner. Lower off of the anchors to get down. This is not the bolted line along the arete with the fixed lost arrow, that would be Grunting Gringos.


Small nuts and cams. Save some small TCUs for the crux to protect from ledge fall. Two chain anchor at the top. Two long slings will help to reduce rope drag.

Photos of 3 Amigos Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of the 3 Amigios.
The start of the 3 Amigios.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sweet sweet December days on the Crescent Crack bu...
Sweet sweet December days on the Crescent Crack bu...

Comments on 3 Amigos Add Comment
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By tenesmus
Mar 22, 2007

This is a nice warmup for those who are looking to get ready for Mexican or if Mexican is busy. Then do Grunting Gringo's - its really fun and has recently spent some time with the Wire Brush.
By Nathan Fisher
Jun 8, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Surprisingly fun, and awkward off the ledge.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
May 11, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This in no way is a 1 star route. It's a great finger crack to a really touchy move up top. Keep your ass out of the chimney for maximum value and commit to the moves off the ledge without getting too far right on chicken heads: there's a great transition from fingers to lieback from a not-so-good stance but the gear is solid.
By Adam Johnson
From: Park City, UT
Jun 16, 2010

Pretty clean and a fun lead! Climbed it along with Mexican Crack on Cinco de Mayo....Must do!
By triznuty
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 17, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Great climbing and good gear. Just go for it at the top!
By Kyle Goupil
From: SLC, UT
Oct 23, 2015

Did this a few weeks back. There is good pro through the crux. I dont think you should be worried about your ankles like the description says. I fell at the crux and was fine.

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