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3. Albion

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Dipper TR 
Cecret Saddle TR 
Extrovert TR 
Extrovert Upper TR 
Glory Gulch TR 
Little Dipper TR 
Pillar East TR 
Pillar Left TR 
Pillar Right T,TR 
Sidewinder TR 
So Long TR 

3. Albion Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 41.14524, -74.16486 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 928
Administrators: SMarsh, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: kenr on Dec 28, 2015
Forecast:
Today

52° | 39°
Wednesday

55° | 30°
Thursday

51° | 37°
Friday

45° | 39°
Saturday

49° | 37°
Sunday

56° | 38°
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BETA PHOTO: Albion sector: A - Extrovert Upper B - Little Dipp...

Description 

Nice spot to do lots of easy interesting 5.2 - 5.7 slab climbing on Top-Rope. Steeper interesting 5.8 below the obvious mid-platform. Two more interesting 5.3-5.4 routes nearby in the Baldy sector.

East-facing slab on the upper cliff a ways northeast from Tower Wall, with striking pillar below. Just right (east) of the Baldy sector and just left (southwest) of the Shadow Castle sector.

The main base mid-platform is flat, but with a dangerous cliff drop-off around it. So if have any doubts about the carefulness or focus of some participants, good idea to tether them (tree available).

warning: The rock on and around this cliff has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Getting There 

Because of difficult vegetation as of 2015, the easiest approach is to first go to the base of the Puzzle Palace crag, then walk about 200 feet left horizontally WSW under steep left-trending gully and Jumble Hotel crag, then under another steep gully and Devonshire slab and Shadow Castle sectors, past the corner to an eight-feed wide flat platform below the upper slab.

How to get to Puzzle Palace: See detailed instructions in the first Comment on the Puzzle Palace area page.

Top-Roping: To set up a top anchor, traverse right (East) under the base of the Shadow Castle and Devonshire sectors, and continue past a steep loose gully and under the Jumble Hotel crag, almost to the base of the Puzzle Palace crag. Scramble up the steep left-trending gully (careful of loose sections) on the left side of Puzzle Palace, then horizontal Left (SouthWest) along the top of the cliff past above Albion slab, then down below the top about ten feet, then about another thirty feet back East.
... or ...
Top anchor could also be reached by going out around way southeast to the top of the Tower Wall, then walking NorthEast along the top of the cliffs, then down below the top about ten feet, then about another thirty feet east.

Climbing Season

For the Powerlinez area.

Weather station 2.1 miles from here

11 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',5],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For 3. Albion

Pillar East 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  New York : Powerlinez : ... : 3. Albion
Scramble up about ten feet to reach the steep face of the East wall. Up the wide crack almost at the left (south) edge of the East wall. At the top of the wide crack make a big step right, then up narrow cracks and flakes to top out on the main mid-platform.. Variation: From the top of the crack, go directly to the top (without using handholds for the Pillar Right route) - (5.9).Easier version ... (skip the wide crack and big traverse step): Scramble up higher diagonal rightward below the East f...[more]   Browse More Classics in New York

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