BETA PHOTO: Albion sector: A - Extrovert Upper B - Little Dipp...
Nice spot to do lots of easy interesting 5.2 - 5.7 slab climbing on Top-Rope. Steeper interesting 5.8 below the obvious mid-platform. Two more interesting 5.3-5.4 routes nearby in the Baldy sector.
East-facing slab on the upper cliff a ways northeast from Tower Wall, with striking pillar below. Just right (east) of the Baldy sector and just left (southwest) of the Shadow Castle sector.
The main base mid-platform is flat, but with a dangerous cliff drop-off around it. So if have any doubts about the carefulness or focus of some participants, good idea to tether them (tree available).
warning: The rock on and around this cliff has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
Because of difficult vegetation as of 2015, the easiest approach is to first go to the base of the Puzzle Palace
crag, then walk about 200 feet left horizontally WSW under steep left-trending gully and Jumble Hotel crag, then under another steep gully and Devonshire slab and Shadow Castle sectors, past the corner to an eight-feed wide flat platform below the upper slab.
How to get to Puzzle Palace: See detailed instructions
in the first Comment
on the Puzzle Palace area page
Top-Roping: To set up a top anchor, traverse right (East) under the base of the Shadow Castle and Devonshire sectors, and continue past a steep loose gully and under the Jumble Hotel crag, almost to the base of the Puzzle Palace
crag. Scramble up the steep left-trending gully (careful of loose sections) on the left side of Puzzle Palace
, then horizontal Left (SouthWest) along the top of the cliff past
above Albion slab, then down below the top about ten feet, then about another thirty feet back East.
... or ...
Top anchor could also be reached by going out around way southeast to the top of the Tower Wall, then walking NorthEast along the top of the cliffs, then down below the top about ten feet, then about another thirty feet east.
Climbing Season For the Powerlinez area.
Weather station 2.1 miles from here
11 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For 3. Albion
Pillar East 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b New York
: ... : 3. Albion
Scramble up about ten feet to reach the steep face of the East wall. Up the wide crack almost at the left (south) edge of the East wall. At the top of the wide crack make a big step right, then up narrow cracks and flakes to top out on the main mid-platform.. Variation: From the top of the crack, go directly to the top (without using handholds for the Pillar Right route) - (5.9).Easier version ... (skip the wide crack and big traverse step): Scramble up higher diagonal rightward below the East f...[more] Browse More Classics in New York