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27 Years of Climbing 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Alex Yeakley
Season: year round
Page Views: 22,843
Submitted By: russellHOBART on Mar 20, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (585)
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Near the top of 27 Years of Climbing (5.8)


Great spicy climb for the beginning leader. Huge holds with great movements


Left side of corner


7 bolts and anchors

Photos of 27 Years of Climbing Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Enrique on 27 years...
Enrique on 27 years...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ditchin the rubber on a damp day
Ditchin the rubber on a damp day
Rock Climbing Photo: 27 Years of Climbing
BETA PHOTO: 27 Years of Climbing
Rock Climbing Photo: Over green hump and up
BETA PHOTO: Over green hump and up
Rock Climbing Photo: The classic 5.8 at The Gallery
The classic 5.8 at The Gallery
Rock Climbing Photo: Clipping the anchors
Clipping the anchors
Rock Climbing Photo: Finally able to get on this route. Nice variation ...
Finally able to get on this route. Nice variation ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pat near the top.
Pat near the top.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber on 27 years.
Climber on 27 years.

Comments on 27 Years of Climbing Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 16, 2017
From: michigan
Jun 24, 2010

pretty good climb. great stances while clipping. watch out for water seeping out of the rock right at the base of the climb. bring a rope bag or something to flake on.
From: Chicago/Colorado
Mar 2, 2011

Routes like this keep you coming back. Pure pleasure. Just fun stuff provided by nature and a guy with a hammerdrill.
By Isaac Levin
From: Clemson, SC
Mar 22, 2012

Such a relaxing climb. The bottom is pretty straight forward and can be a little boring. But, overall it is a very fun route.
By Zeke6
From: Akron, Ohio
Jun 25, 2012

"Pretty good climb" "can be a little boring"

So critical that you don't realize what an amazing climb this is.
From: michigan
Mar 11, 2013

so...when i said i thought it was a pretty good climb, i meant i thought it was a pretty good climb.
By TylerC
Apr 21, 2014

This is a great climb for anyone new to lead climbing. Clipping stance is excellent at almost every bolt, on a full foot ledge with jug holds through the entire route. Crux is possibly reaching the first bolt, or a pillar section with options for a lean-back accent on decent feet, or a compression ladder climb that requires more technique than strength. Clipping chains may be difficult for the shorter folk.
By Andy P.
From: Wisconsin
Jul 27, 2016

Outstanding climbing, holds are strong and the route is well gardened with nothing loose. Crux for most of my group was getting above a small bulge right below the chains. This upper crux can be bypassed with some balancy climbing slightly right of the bolt - the "technician's solution." Alternatively, the strong leaders can climb the bulge straight on using a couple of finger pockets for a big move to solution jugs on the slab above - this would be the "burly boulderer's solution." Have fun!
By highneed
Sep 7, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is the Unicorn; rarely is there a climb this good, at this grade with bolts. Also you can lead on gear with much runout.
By Russ Worley
From: Atlanta, GA
Nov 7, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The Unicorn! I like it, hehe. There is another rare breed 5.8 around the corner in The Shire. The route is "Audie" and is easily tied with this one for Best in Show. Awesome intro to the Kentucky pump.
By Rob Sutliff
Jul 10, 2017

Made the mistake of climbing this route the day after a very heavy rain. Because it's right next to a drainage spot, most of the holds were still sopping wet and unusable, whereas other routes along the wall were perfectly fine. I would often times find a hold that would seem really good, but then as I stuck my hand in it was slimy and wet and took all the chalk off my hand. This made the route much harder and not enjoyable. May try again when it's not so wet.
By AnthonyKraschinsky
Aug 21, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I absolutely loved this route! Had to wait a little while, plus my wife and had our two year old out climbing with us too (thanks to whoever built the railings!!), and therefore had to resort to asking a kind young man from Toledo to belay me. It's very simular, yet much easier, than "a brief history of climb" due to the plate feeling juggy holds. All in all a tremendous warm climb for all skill levels!
By Franck Vee
2 days ago
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Well worth the likely wait. You should climb that regardless of grades - it's just a bunch of really fun moves.

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