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YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 36'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Collin Wogenstahl
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,352
Submitted By: Woogie on Jul 25, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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Brandon after the crux

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>


Short and sweet with a very distinct crux. This route will have the gym rats lining up to tick their first 12a. The first two bolts will lull you into a false sense of security. Clip the third bolt off of an adequate pocket and get ready for the freak show. After the pocket you will swear the holds have broken and the route is now impossible but have faith and look for some minuscule pimple like bumps masquerading as holds.
Hang on and dig deep to recruit every fast twitch muscle fiber you have and slap desperately to a decent edge. Two more bolts of easier climbing lead you to an oh so awkward mantle guarding the anchor.


This route is located 6 feet to the right of Rincon and 10 feet to the left of Drunken Midget.


5 bolts to ring anchors

Photos of 26 Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Closeup of the business
Closeup of the business
Rock Climbing Photo: Rope marks the line.
BETA PHOTO: Rope marks the line.

Comments on 26 Add Comment
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From: Texas
Jul 6, 2013

The route does not have a lot to offer beyond the fact that it offers one move that feels impossible, but is actually doable once you find a way to hold onto those nasty little holds.

These are the smallest holds that I have ever used. It was a cool feeling to finally stick the crux, but that amounts to about 3 memorable moves in 30 ft.
By Chris Doobtrain
From: Sandy, Utah
Sep 8, 2013

Short route, one move wonder 12a. Very fun though!
By Ryan Arnold
Sep 13, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I can't help it. I just love this climb. The same way I love V5 crimpfests on the slab bouldering wall at the gym. Only 2 hard moves but they're killer! Get on it!
By Rud Johansen
Sep 15, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

5.10 climbing to tiny holds to 5.10 climbing again all on a "climbing gym" size wall. Fun route to figure out. You have to unlock the crux moves in a precise manner or you will blow off pebbles. Route is bolted very well for all clips and falls.

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