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YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 235'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: G. & L. Fiorenza, N. Campitelli 97
Page Views: 288
Submitted By: Paul S on May 24, 2009

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This is a fun quick route that contains some fun crack climbing with a crux face traverse.

P1: This goes up a left facing dihedral that looks a little dirty, but the climbing is actually a lot better than it looks to be. The pitch goes to the obvious point where one can start the traverse out to the right.

P2: This is the short crux pitch that traverses to a bolted anchor. The topo shows 2 pitons, but I don't remember any being there (although my memory is a little vague). When we climbed this we linked P1 and P2 together which worked out fine.

P3: Head straight up over a small roof following cracks to a bolted anchor about 5m below the summit. This pitch isn't too hard, just very fun exposed crack climbing.

Descent: Rap to the top of P2 then to the ground on double 60m's (50m's ?might? work too).


Finding the start of this climb is a little confusing as the topo in the topo in the guide tries to cover too much of a big wall on a small page. Hike up the base of the wall to the base of a gully (so you'll be hiking to the far right side of the wall). To find the route, it's best to look for the second pitch traverse, which takes a crack across of smooth face. Once this is found you'll be able to pick out the right dihedral to climb for P1. To get to the base of the dihedral we scrambled/solo'd about 10m up and left of a small platform at the base of the wall. This allows combining P1 and P2 with little rope drag.


Standard rack, C3's worked well for the crux.

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