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Bee Gorge North Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
14: Pingheng ("Balance") S 
1: Fushi: Pumice T 
21: Unnamed: ["From Choss to Stardom"] T 
2: Chayidian: "Kinda Poor" T 
3: Unnamed [“Sharp n’ Airy”] S 
4: Unnamed ["Smile for the Camera... in the Shadow of the Great Wall"/SftC" T,S 
5: Digua: "Sweet Potato" T,S 
7: Banzhang: "Squad Leader" S 

21: Unnamed: ["From Choss to Stardom"] 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Fei Hu and Wu Peng
Page Views: 95
Submitted By: RyderS Stroud on Jul 14, 2013

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Route 21 in the topo

Description 

A hidden trad gem on the north wall. Start ~50 ft. right and downhill from 春色满园 just to the left of a broken buttress. The start is a little hard to find; if you drift right, there will be a some loose rock. The best bet is to start beneath an obvious overhang halfway up the wall, to the right of an obvious right-facing (to my knowledge unclimbed) corner that runs to the top of the cliff. You are aiming for that short corner with an overhang above. Climb into the corner and up to the overhang, which will have a small, down-facing horn feature. Surmount the overhang to the face above and follow a beautiful, clean, curved, right-trending crack to the bolts.

Note: Another great trad route at the crag. The route is seldom climbed, hence why any drifting off the route line will encounter some loose rock. From the ledge above the broken buttress system, the climbing is steep, sustained, and very enjoyable. There is also a huge corner system about 30 to 40 feet to the left that has not been developed, and it looks like it would be a great trad line if developed.

Protection 

- Bolted anchor station

- BD nuts (4-13)
- Cams to 3"
- 8 shoulder length slings
- 2 double-length slings


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