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2 pin crack 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Spring, Fall
Page Views: 121
Submitted By: Ensign on May 21, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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BETA PHOTO: Dirty, flaring, tricky pro, insects, but easy... ...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


I don't know what this route is named or how hard it really is. I just called it "2 pin crack" hoping somebody who knows better can fix this post. As for the rating, it feels low fifth class. It was full of dirt, pine needles, ants, etc. I cleaned it out with a nut tool and found 2 pins, so it's been climbed by somebody. The pins actually look solid and don't look all that old. Starts below a large pine tree on a ledge about 60 feet up. Wander up easy but insecure and unprotected face climbing a bit higher than is wise to the base of a serpiginous flaring crack system. This flaring crack takes some gear, but sort of finicky. I actually enjoyed this: it took time to futz around and get the protection sorted, but it is slabby enough that it's not hard to hang out and take your time. If you have 2 ropes or a 70 meter you can go all the way (up some mossy but decent rock) to the anchor of HMR-6 to descend (see "protection").


About 40 yards or so to the left (Northeast) of Better with Bacon.


Single rack with TCUs, gear to 2", plus clipped the 2 pitons. The crack flares and I found HB offset nuts useful. Also I used a slider nut that was really helpful. To descend you can dodge left to a large pine tree about 50-60 feet up and rap from somebody's old cordalette, or if you have a 70 meter rope you can head up and right on mossy rock past another small tree to the Mussy hook anchor on the top of HMR-6. Be careful, a 70 meter comes up about 10 feet short, but it's an easy downclimb. High risk of getting dropped if you don't knot both ends.

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