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1st Band

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Meaty, Beaty, Big, and Bouncy S 
Pandemonium S 
Paradisio S 

1st Band Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,000'
Location: 39.20041, -107.23589 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,232
Administrators: Jason Smith, Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nick Wilder on Jul 6, 2014
Forecast:
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One of the fixed lines used for the approach for T...

Description 

The first band contains mostly hard sport routes (5.12 and up) and a couple moderates on the far right, but the rock is very rotten on that end.

Getting There 

From the approach gully, look for a small cairn after you become level with what looks like climbable rock to the right. If you look off up and to the right, you will see a lot of bolts on bulges and overhangs.

Step off the main gully, going slightly down and over precariously loose terrain to the base of the ledge. Find a fixed line, and use it gain the ledge proper. The follow more fixed lines along the base of the climbs until the ledge becomes wider and safer.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.4 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in 1st Band

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for 1st Band:
Pandemonium   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Meaty, Beaty, Big, and Bouncy   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in 1st Band

Featured Route For 1st Band
Rock Climbing Photo: Overview of First Band moderates.

Meaty, Beaty, Big, and Bouncy 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  Colorado : Carbondale Area : ... : 1st Band
Start with some difficult/funky moves getting past the wide crack at the start, then follow mellow climbing up a shallow, left-facing corner to a crux when you exit the corner. Get past this, and enjoy the beautifully textured stone leading to the chains....[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Comments on 1st Band Add Comment
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By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Jun 26, 2015
Not sure what the description above is referring to with rotten rock. The rock at this crag is generally quite good, with the occasional brief choss band at the start.

Also, for a less adventurous approach, park in the first pullout on your left after you pass the north entrance to Redstone. This is the same parking for the River Boulders. Cross the highway, and pick up a trail. Follow this up the hill, and when it splits just before the cliff, stay left (right is the Friends and Family slab), watching out for some poison ivy at the junction. Follow a faint and rugged trail up and left which brings you to the base of the cave routes.

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