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The Aprons
Routes Sorted
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1st Apron, Left Side  T 
2nd Apron Center T 
2nd Apron Far Left T 
2nd Apron Left Side T 
2nd Apron Right Side T 
2nd Apron, Right Side Dihedral T 
3rd Apron Left T 
Cheap Date [1st Apron] T 
Napkin (2nd Apron), The T 
Slip and Slide [1st Apron] T 

1st Apron, Left Side  

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Josh Tartakoff, Nathan Muncy, Casey Barnum
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 599
Submitted By: Nate Muncy on Jul 4, 2014

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Josh and Casey at the top of pitch 5.


This may be a variation of Slip and Slide or may already be a different route (beta/topo for which I cannot find). If so, I'll make the appropriate adjustments.

This route is found on the left side of the 1st Apron, right next to the glacier. Approach from the parking lot of Summit Lake by heading WSW to The Aprons, approximately 30 min. The first Apron is the left-most face, which faces ENE.

Pitch 1 - 4-5th class, we free-soloed approximately 300 feet until we felt that we were pulling low grade 5th class moves (5.6). We built an anchor in a right-trending flake system about level with the large roof to the far right.

Pitch 2 - 55m, 5.6. From the flake system, climb follow up the most natural route. Gear placement is sparse, requiring some thoughtful placements 30-40 feet apart (the first placement won't happen for 50 feet or so). Belay from a grassy ledge with less-than-comfortable placements.

Pitch 3 - 65m, 5.6. Follow up on the slab with runout placements. Belay from atop a rounded, left-trending, sloping ramp.

Pitch 4 - 65m, 5.7. Start and trend left on steeper climbing, navigating some mini-roofs. There are much better gear placements. After pulling over, head straight up slab climbing to a grassy ledge you could pitch a tent on, with a great vertical crack for a top belay station.

Pitch 5 - 65m, 5.6. Head straight up on slab and a bit left gunning for the ridge. Stop after nearly 70m on a grassy ramp that leads towards the ridge line. Gear placement ok on this pitch.

Pitch 6 - 60m, 3rd class. Unrope and walk up the grassy ramp to the ridge line. Descend 25 feet to find the trail that will take you (left, SSE) to the parking lot.

There is lots and lots of choss - test everything. There is tons of lichen also.
It is an easy climb but not an ideal first trad lead due to runouts and tricky placements. Each pitch only took 4-5 pieces of pro.

A 70m rope would be a good idea, some pitch distances may be closer to 70m.
I could imagine that some people would also rate this route PG-13.


Basic rack, hexes will be your friend.

Photos of 1st Apron, Left Side Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: First apron, left side. Belay spots (X) are approx...
BETA PHOTO: First apron, left side. Belay spots (X) are approx...

Comments on 1st Apron, Left Side Add Comment
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By ryanpanasy
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 10, 2015

We followed a line similar to the description to the route/topo with some minor variations. Topo:

P1 - up to 5.6+, 400ish feet. Soloed up the leftmost moss filled crack (left of line on the topo). The crack is 1 to 2 ft wide. You can face climb either side of the crack. As you continue upwards, a right-facing dihedral will begin to form. Continue face climbing left of the crack or use the flakes in the dihedral to do some very low angle, lieback climbing. You should be about even with the large/prominent roof mentioned in the description (they roped up here). We soloed another 100 ft, encountered some 5.6(+?) climbing. At the second set of ledges, we set a two pieces for the belay (P2 belay on the topo).

P2 - 5.6, 200 ft. Wander up slabs and cracks through 1 to 2 ft dihedrals/roofs (nice pro) to a ledge after 150 ft of climbing. Punch up the steep face (~20ft tall), and belay at the top. There was some tat I clipped at the belay, but a brown tricam and a 0.5 C4 rounded out a nice anchor (just after topo's P3 anchor).

P3 - 5.8+ , 175 ft. Cowboy variation. From the belay, look up. See that roof? Yeah, you're going up that. Climb up to the left side of the roof, traverse right 10ft, set a #2 C4 in a crack at head level. Find the undercling, and mount (like a horse) the pointy, flake/rock saddle. A tough boulder move, heel-hooking is encouraged. From sitting on the flake, spot your belay 30ft up and right of you [roof is easily by-passed by going left around it] (find the roof in the topo as the black rectangle right of the topo's path, between their P3 and P4 belays).

P4 - 5.6, 150ish ft. See the shark's tooth up and right? Climb towards it. Decent pro along the way. Climb over a hollow flake and belay 20 ft below the tooth (or easily traverse to the summit ridge along a grassy/mossy ridge).

P5 - 5.6. Make a traverse under the tooth, no feet, great hands. After the traverse, we began to simul and made the 3rd class walk down to the summit ridge (superfluous, but fun - can be skipped by traversing down to the summit ridge).

Great first (for us) alpine-ish route. Don't get too caught up in the pitch-by-pitch breakdown. Go out and climb this beautiful piece of rock!

Pro: set of nuts, pink to brown tricams (four total), Mastercams 0 to 3, and BD C4 #0.5 to 3.

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