|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800', Grade II|
|Original:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA:||Josh Tartakoff, Nathan Muncy, Casey Barnum|
|Submitted By:||Nate Muncy on Jul 4, 2014|
|Comments on 1st Apron, Left Side||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By ryanpanasy Panasy
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 10, 2015
We followed a line similar to the description to the route/topo with some minor variations. Topo: mountainproject.com/images/48/...
P1 - up to 5.6+, 400ish feet. Soloed up the leftmost moss filled crack (left of line on the topo). The crack is 1 to 2 ft wide. You can face climb either side of the crack. As you continue upwards, a right-facing dihedral will begin to form. Continue face climbing left of the crack or use the flakes in the dihedral to do some very low angle, lieback climbing. You should be about even with the large/prominent roof mentioned in the description (they roped up here). We soloed another 100 ft, encountered some 5.6(+?) climbing. At the second set of ledges, we set a two pieces for the belay (P2 belay on the topo).
P2 - 5.6, 200 ft. Wander up slabs and cracks through 1 to 2 ft dihedrals/roofs (nice pro) to a ledge after 150 ft of climbing. Punch up the steep face (~20ft tall), and belay at the top. There was some tat I clipped at the belay, but a brown tricam and a 0.5 C4 rounded out a nice anchor (just after topo's P3 anchor).
P3 - 5.8+ , 175 ft. Cowboy variation. From the belay, look up. See that roof? Yeah, you're going up that. Climb up to the left side of the roof, traverse right 10ft, set a #2 C4 in a crack at head level. Find the undercling, and mount (like a horse) the pointy, flake/rock saddle. A tough boulder move, heel-hooking is encouraged. From sitting on the flake, spot your belay 30ft up and right of you [roof is easily by-passed by going left around it] (find the roof in the topo as the black rectangle right of the topo's path, between their P3 and P4 belays).
P4 - 5.6, 150ish ft. See the shark's tooth up and right? Climb towards it. Decent pro along the way. Climb over a hollow flake and belay 20 ft below the tooth (or easily traverse to the summit ridge along a grassy/mossy ridge).
P5 - 5.6. Make a traverse under the tooth, no feet, great hands. After the traverse, we began to simul and made the 3rd class walk down to the summit ridge (superfluous, but fun - can be skipped by traversing down to the summit ridge).
Great first (for us) alpine-ish route. Don't get too caught up in the pitch-by-pitch breakdown. Go out and climb this beautiful piece of rock!
Pro: set of nuts, pink to brown tricams (four total), Mastercams 0 to 3, and BD C4 #0.5 to 3.