1978 Bracksieck/Mallow Route
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.2 from 5 votes
Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | George Bracksieck and Cathy Mallow |
Page Views: | 2,663 total · 20/month |
Shared By: | George Bracksieck on Jul 26, 2013 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
This is a climb I led in 10/21/78. It is located on the right side of the rock and begins on the ground, just left of an obvious, short, two-tiered, left-facing dihedral that has a consistently hand-sized crack. (See the photo posted for "Left-Facing Dihedral.")
Climb up blobby rock, with no pro, angling right to meet the exit of "Left-Facing Dihedral." Belay on the big, grassy ledge about 40 feet up.
Climb straight up lower-angled, featured terrain, then angle right to the top of the big, HIGH left-facing dihedral. We belayed at a small (but not tiny) conifer on a ledge. This route crosses Unknown 9+ here. That route's bolted station lies to the left of the tree, but it isn't useful to belay the short, steep top section of the HIGH left-facing dihedral.
Climb the short, crux left-facing dihedral (bomber medium stopper and hex placements, or an unnecessary new bolt; old-school 5.7, if dry) to a big ledge, then continue to the top of the cliff. We walked off, although there is now a bolted anchor.
Climb up blobby rock, with no pro, angling right to meet the exit of "Left-Facing Dihedral." Belay on the big, grassy ledge about 40 feet up.
Climb straight up lower-angled, featured terrain, then angle right to the top of the big, HIGH left-facing dihedral. We belayed at a small (but not tiny) conifer on a ledge. This route crosses Unknown 9+ here. That route's bolted station lies to the left of the tree, but it isn't useful to belay the short, steep top section of the HIGH left-facing dihedral.
Climb the short, crux left-facing dihedral (bomber medium stopper and hex placements, or an unnecessary new bolt; old-school 5.7, if dry) to a big ledge, then continue to the top of the cliff. We walked off, although there is now a bolted anchor.
2 Comments