Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Bee Gorge North Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
14: Pingheng ("Balance") S 
1: Fushi: Pumice T 
21: Unnamed: ["From Choss to Stardom"] T 
2: Chayidian: "Kinda Poor" T 
3: Unnamed [“Sharp n’ Airy”] S 
4: Unnamed ["Smile for the Camera... in the Shadow of the Great Wall"/SftC" T,S 
5: Digua: "Sweet Potato" T,S 
7: Banzhang: "Squad Leader" S 

14: Pingheng ("Balance") 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: CMDI, 2007
Page Views: 81
Submitted By: RyderS on Jul 14, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Approaching crux on 平衡

Description 

A great, hard sport climb with the crux coming up high. This route will definitely test your endurance and sequencing.

Pull through a thin boulder problem immediately off the deck and maintain your focus to get to the first bolt if you are not stick clipping (still a bit scary until the second bolt).

The middle of the wall will let up a little bit in intensity, but not much. The top third of the route is the crux. Aim for a large triangular pocket beneath slightly slabbier terrain. Find an undercling and move right into the obvious corner (away from the bolt line--committing with pendulum potential) and continue on hard slab moves up to the anchor (doesn’t let up from the pocket to the anchors).

Protection 

7 bolts + anchor


Photos of 14: Pingheng ("Balance") Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A climber just to the right of "Balance."...
A climber just to the right of "Balance."...

Comments on 14: Pingheng ("Balance") Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -