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Bee Gorge North Wall
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14: Pingheng ("Balance") S 
1: Fushi: Pumice T 
21: Unnamed: ["From Choss to Stardom"] T 
2: Chayidian: "Kinda Poor" T 
3: Unnamed [“Sharp n’ Airy”] S 
4: Unnamed ["Smile for the Camera... in the Shadow of the Great Wall"/SftC" T,S 
5: Digua: "Sweet Potato" T,S 
7: Banzhang: "Squad Leader" S 

14: Pingheng ("Balance") 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: CMDI, 2007
Page Views: 93
Submitted By: RyderS Stroud on Jul 14, 2013

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Approaching crux on 平衡


A great, hard sport climb with the crux coming up high. This route will definitely test your endurance and sequencing.

Pull through a thin boulder problem immediately off the deck and maintain your focus to get to the first bolt if you are not stick clipping (still a bit scary until the second bolt).

The middle of the wall will let up a little bit in intensity, but not much. The top third of the route is the crux. Aim for a large triangular pocket beneath slightly slabbier terrain. Find an undercling and move right into the obvious corner (away from the bolt line--committing with pendulum potential) and continue on hard slab moves up to the anchor (doesn’t let up from the pocket to the anchors).


7 bolts + anchor

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