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Upper Fat City Drainage
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
1/4" Minus 
Amputation 
Brachiation 
Dham Uht 
Free Cap'n 
Knobby, The 
Roybal's Wall 
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1/4" Minus 

Hueco: V8 Font: 7B

   
Type:  Boulder, 12'
Original:  Hueco: V8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: Tom Ellis
Page Views: 2,103
Submitted By: thomas ellis on Oct 12, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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1/4" Minus

Description 

Low start just right of arete on double gaston crimps, traverse right into good holds and then dead point or dyno to crimp a foot below lip. Super good climbing on great rock. One of the best I have found in the Sandias for the grade.

Location 

Right of Free Cap'n

Protection 

pads


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Rock Climbing Photo: 1/4" Minus
1/4" Minus

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By docsavage
From: Albuquerque, NM
Oct 25, 2016

Paul Horak just reported this face was first done by a guy called 'Lunging Dave' out of Colorado ... according to Paul, he & Dave Baltz worked on it for months, then one day he showed it to Lunging Dave, who promptly sent it on sight ... this would have been in the mid 80s ...
By Owen Summerscales
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 26, 2016

If Jim Holloway bouldered V12 in 1975 then I can believe this! Still, that's pretty strong work...
By Williampenner
From: The 505
Oct 26, 2016

That is a hard dyno to have done in the 80s, doc!
The 1/4" Minus problem starts way down and left with a hard sit start, which in no way diminishes the accomplishment of Lungin' Dave having stuck a hard move that shuts me down a bunch.

Thanks for sharing,

William
By docsavage
From: Albuquerque, NM
Oct 30, 2016

Will & Owen - sounds incredible, I know ... of course I can't vouch for the sit start, that must have come later ... still I'm inclined to believe Paul's story if only on principle ... so much was done back then that went unrecorded ... I did what I could to keep up with my newsletter, but that ended when I left ABQ in 79 ... not just here but over in Three Gun Springs a group was active that included Paul & Dave, Mike Head & Dirk VanWinkle ... I would be much surprised if half the major lines above the parking lot & at the trailside farther up - including the Knob Highball - were not sent around this time....