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14 Carats 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,439
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Nov 30, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Greg on the 4-star 14 Carats.


14 Carats climbs an obvious, clean white wall through a low roof just at the point that the Gem wall faces north. Some moderate but steep pockets through a roof lead to the business, a seemingly never-ending series of thin and not so thin edges. It looks slabby but it's not. The guidebook lists this as 12a/b, but unless I really missed something it felt solid 12b.


9 QDs.

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By Andy McAdams
Sep 25, 2011

I thought this was a great route, and in fact, it is one of my favorite sport routes that I've done. Because technically the main part of this route is slab, the general crux is balance and trusting the mono pockets. Lastly, the guidebook talks about the roof at the start. The roof is a joke and is completely forgotten about once the real climbing begins.
By slim
Apr 29, 2013
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Perfect climbing on this one, absolutely fantastic. An excellent choice for making the transition from Shelf 12a's to 12b's - no brutal stopper/finger wrecking moves, but a lot of fairly difficult climbing to string together.
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 26, 2013

Props to anyone who can onsight this thing. An endless sea of crimping and trying to figure out which holds to use. I agree with the person who posted this thing, I thought it was very solid 12b. Great route though with fun movement.
By AJ O.
From: Arvada, CO
Oct 24, 2016
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

A real beauty, not to be missed. Quite possibly one of the best 12b's at Shelf.

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