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Rock Climbing Photo: Allison Variation, 5.9 FDA: Dean Allison and Guy H...
Id# 1202955, 1125 x 1500px View full size
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By Eric Sjoden
Mar 28, 2014
I led the Allison variation described here a couple years ago. The gear fades away as you are forced to traverse right at the end of the pitch. This traverse consists of slopey 5.9 holds that are covered in thick, crumbly lichen. I am posting this because if you are looking for a "mellow" alpine 5.9 pitch to lead - this pitch probably isn't for you, and it would likely be safer to do the 5.10 crack that can be better protected. If you blow the traverse (again, flowery lichen you are standing on and clinging to) and the RP down and to your left fails (likely), you will definitely get hurt.

As it gets cleaned up, and I think it certainly deserves some traffic, it will be a great pitch.
By JShin
From: Centennial, CO
Aug 4, 2017
Please listen to Eric Sjoden.
Photo 5 of 41
Avg Score   5.0 from 2 votes
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Allison Variation, 5.9
FDA: Dean Allison and Guy Humphrey
Gear: gear to 1 inch

This climb is not documented anywhere, and we saw no signs of climbers on the line. This is a good line if you prefer finger cracks to chimneys and you are not up for the 5.10 cracks on the main face. The pitch can also be used to make a four pitch route that has 5.9 climbing on each pitch. The climbing is as good or better than the upper 5.9 pitches.

The climb starts to the left of the 5.8 P1 variation in a sharp layback finger crack. About halfway up the left-facing dihedral, the crack starts to disappear and the gear looks like it goes with it. There is good gear to be found, but you will need to look for it. The top of the dihedral is capped by a small roof. It forces you out on face to the right with a hidden line of holds that keeps it at 5.9. This exciting tarverse ends at a belay below the 2nd 5.9 pitch variation. Fun stuff!

Submitted By: Guy H. on Aug 21, 2003
On this route:
The Flying Buttress (5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a )
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