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12 Gauge S 

12 Gauge 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a X

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 135'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a X [details]
FA: 
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall to Spring
Page Views: 132
Submitted By: Ketchup on Apr 17, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: On approach.

Description 

This line takes the arete of a long fin. The position is wildly exposed and the climbing unbelievable. Currently this a project because I was unable to finish bolting the route. Cruxes occur where the rounded arete lacks feature and steepens to vertical. The lowest section climbs a crack behind a terrible quality flake up to a ledge. From the ledge embark right on microscopic edges to gain the rounded arete. Faith in friction leads to an actual crimp, some high stepping, a right heel scum and lots of desperate compression moves. The thank god undercling would be better if it looked more solid but love the finger jams above despite the fear of displacing a large chunk of the arete. Above the arete sharpens, and some easily climbing in excellent position results. A final series of footless arete moves lead to easy climbing and the top out ledge. Rap anchors behind the top allow a 35 m rappel right (east).

Location 

Look for the obvious fin as you approach. Scramble behind a tree to a shady alcove to belay. Can be approached from above via rappel off a fallen tree.

Protection 

Bolts. Incomplete at this time. TR only.


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