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11th hour 3rd pitch variation  T 
Afternoon Delight T 
Eleven-Thirty T 
Eleventh Hour T 
No Bologna 
Sundial Falls 

11th hour 3rd pitch variation  

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 165', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown?
Season: summer and fall
Page Views: 306
Submitted By: justa beater on Jul 6, 2016

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Jenny is hella stoked on her first "no drama&...

Description 

From the belay ledge after the corner pitch traverse left for about 15 feet, you can put pro in at the first crack and continue to the next. Climb this second crack with great finger locks and hand jambs for about 30 to 40 feet. You'll come to a roof with a fixed u stem cam, which I clipped wit a double shoulder sling. After clipping this or setting your own cam go left under and around the overhang. Another 10 feet or so of climbing brings you to the crux roof, great gear here with long runners and terrific exposure, clip your piece look down and smile at the exposure, then fire the roof, kinda awkward but fun. Over the roof the crack continues to a stance and gear you can go left in the same crack or right to another crack, left didn't look as fun. Work up to a ledge with lots of spots for pro along the way. The ledge is dirty and covered in shale. Figure out how to pull it walk 10 feet and continue up another crux short slab section to a slot that places you on the top. Be very careful about loose stuff from the ledge to the top. Bring long slings or the rope drag will suck!

Location 

On the sundial formation, last pitch go left toward the big roof.

Protection 

Standard, same as 11th hour


Photos of 11th hour 3rd pitch variation Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: start of the 3rd pitch variation and overhang
BETA PHOTO: start of the 3rd pitch variation and overhang
Rock Climbing Photo: Without lines it's easier to see the cracks we...
Without lines it's easier to see the cracks we...
Rock Climbing Photo: Yellow line is the original route. Yellow dots are...
BETA PHOTO: Yellow line is the original route. Yellow dots are...

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