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11.5 - The Sugar Cookie

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Donkey Way, The S 
Evil Sede S 
Joe's Garage T 

11.5 - The Sugar Cookie Rock Climbing 


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Location: 37.6938, -119.72668 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 452
Administrators: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: tallmark515 on Apr 2, 2017
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Description 

Small crag located immediately to the (climber's) left of the Cookie Sheet. Morning sun, and afternoon shade (1pm in April). Lots of new, high quality routes here, up to two pitches and more going up. A good addition to the greater Cookie area. Most routes are 5.11 and up, but there is one 5.10 "warm-up" and a bunch of easier climbs just down the hill on the Cookie Sheet.

Getting There 

Same approach as the Cookie Sheet, but once you've arrived at the base of the sheet, traverse to the climber's left and up a hill for about 200 feet. There is a nice flat "staging area" at the base of three independent bolted lines, all of the routes can be accessed from here (via the bolted lines). Watch out for poison oak on the approach and at the base.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.7 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',1],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For 11.5 - The Sugar Cookie

Joe's Garage 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  California : Yosemite National Park : ... : 11.5 - The Sugar Cookie
The first section of this route is 3 bolts (11b) and moves up and left into a large flake and to a large pedestal (stance). This is actually a new variation to Joe's Garage, but adds 40 feet of high quality face climbing. The alternative is a 3rd class scramble around the corner to the left. From the pedestal above the flake, place high gear (nuts and blue alien size) and punch it up to good finger locks in a 50 foot splitter finger crack (mostly .4 and .5 Camalot). A second ...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

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