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Why are offset nuts a thing?

Patrik · · Third rock from Sun · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 30
greggrylls wrote:

I've had some trouble with this. If the "flaringness" of the crack is not identical to the "offset angle" of your offset nut, how do you get more than two tiny points of contact? If the crack is flaring too much, you hang the nut on only two "inner" points and if the flaring is not enough, the nut hangs on two points near the outside.  How do you get some "beefy" contact area going?

Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175
Patrik wrote:

I've had some trouble with this. If the "flaringness" of the crack is not identical to the "offset angle" of your offset nut, how do you get more than two tiny points of contact? If the crack is flaring too much, you hang the nut on only two "inner" points and if the flaring is not enough, the nut hangs on two points near the outside.  How do you get some "beefy" contact area going?

That's easy braj you just run it out duh

grog m · · Saltlakecity · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

LMAO so much censorship. Anyways my two cents - offset nuts are an advanced nut craft tool that can be very useful in the right situations. 

Where it goes wrong is people requesting information on a beginner trad rack and all the armchair experts on here recommend multiple sets of nuts. 

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
grog m aka Greg McKee wrote:

LMAO so much censorship. Anyways my two cents - offset nuts are an advanced nut craft tool that can be very useful in the right situations. 

Where it goes wrong is people requesting information on a beginner trad rack and all the armchair experts on here recommend multiple sets of nuts. 

I need all the nuts I can get my hands on to lead a pitch of rock! The more nuts the better. If I have every shape nut out there something’s gotta fit. 

Madeline Farmer · · Long Beach, CA · Joined May 2016 · Points: 0

Pretty nice for flaring cracks -  high sierra granite takes them well. Often helpful in pin scars too! Like said above, surface area/contact is key with the trad gear! 

Kevin DeWeese · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 981

This post violated Guideline #1 and has been removed.

This post violated Guideline #2 and has been removed.

This post violated Guideline #3 and has been removed.

This post violated Guideline #4 and has been removed.

Tomily ma · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 525
Hobo Greg wrote:

I think the real question is "why are regular nuts still a thing?".

That level of sarcasm is gonna be flagged!!! Wink face!

Wink face. I’ve considered getting doubles of offsets and selling my wallnuts. They are like the totems of nuts!

Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175

Look,

I don't know a whole lot about this whole trad climping thing, but you better Gudd Durn believe I'm going to post on this and other related topics and argue until even I'm bored #everyoneisanexpert #nobodyknowswtftheyaretalkingabout #nobodygivesashet

Paul Morrison · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 55

Why is Bursh a thing?

Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175
Paul Morrison wrote:

Why is Bursh a thing?

Paul, what do you store your woodworking tools in?  I've been looking at ideas for making a leather or waxed canvas tool roll, which I will then fill with expensive rifflers/etc.  Thanks a lot for the financial distress I'll be in shortly, btw.

trailridge · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 20

What is the essence of a "thing"

Aleks Zebastian · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 175

climbing friend,

Offset nutz>?!?!  

( )  (   ) 

you would not need them! 

it is for the selling of unnecessary material goods, emptying out of your bank account the credits in the name of the holy corporate profitz and your ongoing subjugation to the oligarchy in your pretend "democracy"

all you need it is boldness in your heart, sweet skills (nunchuk skills, bowhunting skillz, computer hacking skillz), and incredible sculpted guns with superior pulverizing strength, your crimp upon the climbing rock it is like that of M4 medium sherman tank rolling through the village near normandy, crushing most haplessly everything in its path

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

I kind of love how many #1 violations we’re having in a thread about trad gear.

Anyways: flaring cracks.

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