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Lattice Training Remote assessments- pinpoint your strengths/weaknesses
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Ok Mark, you inspired me to pony up the cash and go through with the assessment I never started back in 2016. Here's my take... As Mark has pointed out, getting the testing materials and performing the test are fairly straight forward, although I'd add that timing the hangboard repeaters for anaerobic and aerobic capacity work is challenging if you're alone (running circuit timers, trying to record results, etc). There's probably some fudge in mine as a result, but I suppose it's within error. In terms of my perceived weaknesses, I've felt for the last several years that I needed to focus on strength and power as climbing-specific training, and mobility/stability on the side. I've always felt that endurance (in all forms) was definitely a strength, and if it got low, I could pick it back up in a session or two. Regarding my results from lattice, I was pleased to find out that my focus on finger strength does have me at or above my current level for routes and boulders, and any strength gains needed for my goals in 1-3 years are well within reason. As a matter of fact, they actually upgraded my goals based on where my finger strength is (my conservative goal planning process could be the topic of another discussion). As I already knew, my mobility is still garbage and I'm strong in static core positions, but could use some improvement in dynamic core work. I never train core anymore, by the way. However, I was shocked to discover that the results on the energy system portion of the test were abysmal! I've done effectively zero base aerobic work (ARCing and the like) since May 2017, always assuming that Front Range routes didn't require much of this energy system. However, what I failed to realize is how important this energy system can be for recovery as well. I've noticed that my ability to put in multiple burns on hard projects has been diminishing, as has my recovery between sessions. That being said, I'd only done about 3 sessions in two months of what would be characterized as endurance training (largely density bouldering) before taking this test, so I wonder if at this snap shot in time I looked uncharacteristically poor, and my theory of being able to quickly regain fitness in the endurance realm still holds true. The Lattice guys noted that my main training focus however should be on anaerobic capacity, which despite reading the assessment and the Alex Barrows pdf, I still don't fully understand. It sounds like the best way to train this system is on relatively hard boulder problems of 12-15 moves, with rest periods of 2-4x. This still sounds like high-end PE to me, so I'm struggling with normalizing the terminology and designing a plan to address it. I've been playing with a nonlinear plan for the last 3 months or so, and while it does keep me relatively fit, I've found it harder to be as focused on projects as I was on something more linear, with a distinct peak. So...any suggests out there on how to best address this energy system work while not neglecting strength and power? Is it best to program capacity work earlier (ala Rock Prodigy), or put all energy system work after a base of strength and power base, alternating between base and more anaerobic focus? I could sign on for a training plan with the Lattice guys based on the results of my assessment, but I'm too cheap! |
evan h wrote: Maybe it is! I really don't like the term "power endurance" anymore. It's an oxymoron, and just really confusing. What we refer to as PE training in the US can often cover both aerobic and anaerobic endurance. I'm not an expert on this, but I've been thinking about endurance a lot last year (which is my weakness). I really like how Tom Randall/Lattice Training break endurance training down into aerobic capacity, aerobic utilization, anaerobic capacity, and anaerobic utilization (except they use "power" instead of "utilization" which also drives me nuts). My understanding is that the three energy systems are always working together, just in different proportions. So training the energy systems is really a sliding scale based on the work time, rest time, and intensity. You don't just flip a switch and go from purely training aerobic endurance to anaerobic endurance, you're always training all the energy systems together, but you can play with the work time/rest time/intensity dials to target one system more than the other. It's hard to explain everything in words, so I made the following graph based on my understanding of aerobic/anaerobic capacity/utilization training. I could be wrong, but I think that utilization training for both aerobic and anaerobic happen close to the anaerobic threshold (or lactate threshold, or whatever the most scientific term is). Aerobic utilization will try to push this threshold up from below, and anaerobic utilization will try to pull this threshold up from above (I know, very scientific!). Aerobic capacity and anaerobic capacity training happen pretty far from the anaerobic threshold, on either end of the scale. And when you perform very difficult moves for a very short amount of time, with full recovery (like limit bouldering, campusing, max hangs), then you're training for strength and power. So my understanding of anaerobic capacity training is basically like what you said, climb hard boulder problems (maybe around your flash level or slightly above - something you have wired) that are half a minute to a minute long, take some rest (2-4 mins) but you're not recovered completely, repeat 3-4 times. You should be failing or near failing at the end of your set due to powering out and not due to pump. If that sounds like "power endurance", that's because "power endurance" basically covers everything from aerobic utilization to anaerobic capacity. Edited to remove graph that's not entirely correct. See the chart from Lattice linked below by Mark Dixon. |
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From the Lattice Facebook page. |
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Thank you sir, great explanation. And I appreciate the visual as well. I'm thinking of designing a plan that's a hybrid between the RP method and Bechtel's Logical Progression, maybe more like Bechtel's Type III plans if you have the book. I do benefit from broadly focused blocks of training, where some aspect is a main focus and the rest are simmered, while still allowing for year-round climbing. Here's my broad plan: Month 1: Strength/Power Focus. Primarily hangboarding + weight training and limit bouldering. Aero Cap work is included as warm-up or cool-down or recovery day work. An Cap is included ideally once per week. Outside climbing is bouldering or roped bouldering. Month 2: Power/An Cap Focus: Bouldering and hard boulder circuits (An Cap). Aero Cap is still used at beginning or end of sessions, or as recovery days. Strength sessions are included once per week or at the end of a outside climbing day. Outside climbing on routes or boulders. Month 3: Endurance Focus: An Cap and Aerobic/Anaerobic power (utilization). Strength still maintained at least 2x per month. Aero Cap minimized. Route climbing outside. The struggle for me is the time in the gym that a lot of these sorts of plans prescribe. I can get in to the gym no more than twice weekly to allow climbing outside on Fri/Sun, so it seems I'm going to have to double up some sessions. I'm not really sure how effective that will be. |
Mark E Dixon wrote: That's a great chart! If I knew it existed I wouldn't have wasted all that time making that graph. Evan, your plan looks ok to me, but ultimately you'll have to try it to see how well it works for you. If you want to incorporate outdoor climbing into your training plan, one thing I've done is to start my training week on Fridays (that's when I tend to climb outside). Climbing outside tends to be the least controllable session in my training plan. Sometimes I'll go out with the intention of working on one thing, but then end up doing something else due to varies reasons. By starting my week on Friday, I can adjust the rest of my week's training based on what I did outside. |
evan h wrote: Your plan sounds fine to me, fwiw. You could also try emailing Tom and Ollie with questions. They have been pretty responsive in my experience. I combine all my sessions and find it works ok. Perhaps I would get better results if I separated everything, but I need the rest in between! A typical training day now will be hangboard; 30-45 minutes a strength wo on a System board; 30 minutes aerobic capacity on the treadwall, 1-2 minutes on, 1 off x 5-10; 20-30 minutes shoulder work with trx/levers/pullups; 60-75 minutes finally a general weight room workout for shoulder prehab and general conditioning (hinge/presses/squat-type exercise); 60 minutes. If I have the time I get to boulder for fun over the course of the day, maybe 60 minutes if I'm lucky. |
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Damn Mark, that’s a serious session! Well it’s encouraging to see that you’re getting results without a single session “focus”. I figure it may not be ideal, but it gets the job done. How many days per week are you doing this? |
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During training season, twice a week, with some variation between sessions. I try to get outside 2-3 times a week, which has worked pretty well this winter :-) During performance season, once a week, to stay sharp. And climb 3-4. Bill Ramsey is my idol. |
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Yes, that sounds very Bill Ramsey-esque. Along those same lines, I have been benefiting from having a post-outdoor day rally and hitting the gym afterwards. |
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Mark why have you decreased the time of your aerobic capacity intervals? I thought that you were doing intervals in the 5 - 8 min range. |
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Quick answer, I bought a training plan from Lattice and I'm following orders. If I get a chance later I'll post about what I think was their rationale and how it's going. |
Mark E Dixon wrote: Wow, if my math is correct (always suspect), that's 3.5-4 hours in one training session. You do that twice a week during training season plus climbing outside 2-3 times a week, or once a week during performance season plus 3-4 days climbing outside? Maybe Bill Ramsey (and myself) has something to learn from you! |
aikibujin wrote: Well I get to rest in between the different components, so it's not that bad. I was doing more before starting with Lattice, and those were hard days tbh! Ramsey's training days are legendary. |
Mark E Dixon wrote: would be more interesting for you to compare/comment on the results of the short intervals versus longer intervals on developing aerobic capacity |
Rui Ferreira wrote: I think it's too early to tell what the effect will be. Shorter intervals seem more stressful directly on the forearms, longer intervals on the whole body, but this distinction is muddied by the fact that I do the short intervals on less steep, but more fingery routes and the long intervals on steep but juggier lines. |
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Evan, I also did the assessment and the result was that I am weak in anaerobic capacity (and the lactate decay). I'm a little bit confused about how to train it and I'm expecting I will sign up for their coaching. Did you sign up for their coaching? |
Steve Pulver wrote: Steve, they must tell everyone they’re weak in An Cap, because no one understands it and they’ll have to sign up for a training plan! Kidding, kidding. No, I have not signed up for a plan. I’m too cheap for that! I’ve basically been trying to add An Cap boulder intervals as described in the Barrows pdf into a strength phase. I’ll add that I pressed Ollie for more details into what consistutes a lower score in this energy system, and he admitted that it could also be a weakness in pure power, but through their training history they have had success in training An Cap. He also told me that the lactate curve is used to come up with your An Cap value (I’m assuming they’re unwilling to fully state how it’s calculated so you have to pay them for more assessments?), so there’s a bit of double dipping there. My lactate curve was also lagging. I’d love to hear more about what they suggest for you, assuming you move forward with a plan. |
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I’ll add that this discussion linked below was also really helpful in guiding me for what I’m currently doing, but as discussed above, I’m training An Cap as boulder intervals, not via repeaters. In general, whatever the weakness, I really prefer a conjugate approach, especially if you’re like me and your soul demands rock climbing every weekend. |
