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Near Miss on Cathedral Peak

Adam K · · Loveland, CO · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 0

Damn i just read through all 10 pages and this jackass never even had the courtesy to make an appearance. 

mark felber · · Wheat Ridge, CO · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 41
TravisJBurke wrote:

Nick Drake, have you seen this guy?  Look at that rap on the single line...I guess the knot is big enough (and then the carabiner) not to slip through the link...but hell, if it started to, or some dumb thing happened to the carabiner (like funkily opening--though I assume its locked--and then dropping the tag line)...I guess he could have clipped the biner to the rap line, and eliminated any chance of failure and then still pulled the tag line...seems weird though.

There's at least one thread on this rappelling method (https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/107988024/reepschnur-rappel-inquiry). Apparently the idea is that you can rappel the full length of your lead line and use a pull line that's not suitable for rappelling by itself (damaged, too thin to start with, etc.). 

physnchips · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 0

As much as it pains to me to give this shithead any credit, the folks complaining about his biner block are off-base.

https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Belaying-and-descending-on-multi-pitch-climbs-on-a-single-rope

M L · · Sonora, CA · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 165
Ryan Huetter wrote:

PLEASE do yourself a favor and look up the recommended Reepschnur type methods of rapping with a tag line. The photo you just posted is not an acceptable method. No need for reinventing the wheel here...

Care to elaborate what is wrong with this photo? 

FosterK · · Edmonton, AB · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 67
Ryan Huetter wrote:

PLEASE do yourself a favor and look up the recommended Reepschnur type methods of rapping with a tag line. The photo you just posted is not an acceptable method. No need for reinventing the wheel here...

This is an acceptable biner block for a single line rappel (with a locker).

TravisJBurke · · Beratzhausen, DEU · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 65
mark felber wrote:

There's at least one thread on this rappelling method (https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/107988024/reepschnur-rappel-inquiry). Apparently the idea is that you can rappel the full length of your lead line and use a pull line that's not suitable for rappelling by itself (damaged, too thin to start with, etc.). 

Certainly, it did work...but in both the reepschnur and the petzl page, the rappel is backed up by clipping the tag line biner on the rappel line...which he hasn't done (2:00 minute mark)...I think that biner will likely not pass through the link he is rapping off, but...it's a very simple fix to close the system...(I think, as well, he may not know to EDK the ropes together...he simply overhand 8'ed both to the biner--which is weird...)  It works, but isn't the system I would choose...if the knot gets pulled through and he's really rapping off the biner--then (as someone said earlier) he's got to prusik back up to pull through the system...

Andrew Rice · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 11
kendallt wrote:

IMO below is the 'right' way to do what he's doing. Join ropes with EDK (depending on diameter), then add a biner (preferably locker) to prevent the rope from slipping through.

If his knot slips through and it gets stuck on the carabiner, he's gonna have to prussik the whole way back up. Plus, the above method doesn't rely completely on the single carabiner.

You forget who we're talking about. He'd "free solo" right up there.

Christopher Smith · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0

Dear god I could only make it to page 4 of this thread.  This guy makes me want to start carrying around a dart blowgun so that I can tag this guy when he's on a ledge, make a swami belt and chest harness out of his copious webbing and lower him down while unconscious.......

Christopher Smith · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0

Lol he went back a week ago to the same spot where he broke his leg originally.....apparently he is learning from at least some of his mistakes as he didn't just jump the gap outright this time

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kCPRBsGAzwg&feature=share

Andrew Rice · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 11
Christopher Smith wrote:

Lol he went back a week ago to the same spot where he broke his leg originally.....apparently he is learning from at least some of his mistakes as he didn't just jump the gap outright this time

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kCPRBsGAzwg&feature=share

My money says he keeps a mummified baby in that bag he drags around.

sean o · · Northern, NM · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 48
Christopher Smith wrote:

Lol he went back a week ago to the same spot where he broke his leg originally.....apparently he is learning from at least some of his mistakes as he didn't just jump the gap outright this time

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kCPRBsGAzwg&feature=share

Good on him for getting back on the horse, I guess, but... WAT?  It's a short, easy, exposed jump on a desert peak in SE California.

David M · · Nashville, TN · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 0
AndrewArroz wrote:

My money says he keeps a mummified baby in that bag he drags around.

Honestly, what I find amazing is that we FINALLY see a use for his weird pack tether that makes some kind of sense. Cross gap without pack, then retrieve. I mean...that works.

Dangle pack below you while you solo strugglebus up <5.6 climbs...notsomuch...

kck · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 85

I have always set up my rap with a 6mm tagline, EDK to the main rope (9.6 mm), and put both through the ATC and rappel normally. Am I going to die?

Andrew Rice · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 11
David M wrote:

Honestly, what I find amazing is that we FINALLY see a use for his weird pack tether that makes some kind of sense. Cross gap without pack, then retrieve. I mean...that works.

Dangle pack below you while you solo strugglebus up <5.6 climbs...notsomuch...

dragging a backpack containing human remains by a long tether makes perfect sense. Not if it contains a jacket and lunch. 

Rob Gordon · · Hollywood, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 115
kck wrote:

I have always set up my rap with a 6mm tagline, EDK to the main rope (9.6 mm), and put both through the ATC and rappel normally. Am I going to die?

Yes. Eventually. 

King Tut · · Citrus Heights · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 430
kck wrote:

 Am I going to die?

Is this a trick question.

rafael · · Berkeley, CA · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 35
AndrewArroz wrote:

dragging a backpack containing human remains by a long tether makes perfect sense. Not if it contains a jacket and lunch. 

his pack is too small for the entirety of a human, so if it is remains its only parts

Andrew Rice · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 11
rafael wrote:

his pack is too small for the entirety of a human, so if it is remains its only parts

In my earlier post I had posited that the pack contains a mummified baby. Which would fit. 

fossana · · leeds, ut · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 13,318
mark felber wrote:

There's at least one thread on this rappelling method (https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/107988024/reepschnur-rappel-inquiry). Apparently the idea is that you can rappel the full length of your lead line and use a pull line that's not suitable for rappelling by itself (damaged, too thin to start with, etc.). 

Single line rap + pull cord is a common canyoneering technique to get around carrying 2 large diameter ropes.

rafael · · Berkeley, CA · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 35
AndrewArroz wrote:

In my earlier post I had posited that the pack contains a mummified baby. Which would fit. 

that would explain why he is wearing those gloves also

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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