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Edelrid OHM

Original Post
Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

Hi forum! Does anyone have experience with the Edelrid OHM? I am usually a good bit lighter then my climbing partners and was thinking about investing in an Ohm. Thanks!

Auden Alsop · · Berkeley · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 401

Maybe this can help you out a bit:

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/111580396/edelrid-ohm?search=1&type=forum&method=dropdown&query=Edelrid%20ohm

Personally never used one but people at the gym I go to rave about them.

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

Thanks. Funny, I don’t think I would use it at the gym. It’s easy to anchor yourself inside. I was thinking for outside use cause finding an anchor outdoors is more of a challenge and can be uncomfortable/dangerous. Just wanting to keep everyone safe:)

Steve Williams · · The state of confusion · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 235

Don't forget, it's only to be used in sport (bolted) climbing, not trad.

Mike V. · · Logan, UT · Joined May 2010 · Points: 47

Just used ours for the very first time today (indoors).

Here's our takeaways:

1) Yes, it works, and works well. Catch feels progressive and doesn't seem to impede hauling in rope for a long clip

2) Surprisingly easy to get clipped in backwards (they have a big picture of a climber going upwards on the side and I still managed to screw it up twice...). I think it is because we're not used to clipping a draw prior to the first bolt.

3) A little too grabby on our used (but not super fuzzy) 10.1 rope. It wasn't a problem, but often after making a clip, the slack wouldn't make it all the way to the belayer. That being said, the benefit far outweighs the downside.

4) Our gym uses tape on the quick link to mark routes, this interferes with the orientation of the device when following the recommendation to clip in the quick-link and not the bolt. We pulled the tape and it oriented properly. 

Despite the learning today, I highly recommend, it felt great not having to worry about pulling my belayer into the first bolt when taking a lead fall (195 vs 120 lb). It definitely felt better than when we used the weight bags.

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

Thanks Mike V. !!!

Jordan Brink · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 0

I'm absolutely in love with my Ohm.  My wife suffers from an eating disorder and is literally half my weight (85 v 170 lbs).  I can actually have her belay for me now, before it was just too risky.   Hopefully in the future I won't need it anymore but thats a different story for a different time.

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

I love all the positive reviews for the Ohm ! Thanks ! 

Jordan Brink hope your wife finds her way to good health. Eating disorders are so tough. So cool y’all found away to climb together !

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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