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Post Awesome Trad Movies Here

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252
Gold Plated Rocket Pony wrote:

Not sure if this on has been posted but came across it last night:

Jeeeesus.  That runout over a #2 nut and a black alien...!

Randy Aristotle · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 239

These were likely already mentioned. Killer:

https://www.youtube.com/user/tvmountain

Paul L · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 316

I don't think I've seen this one here yet:

or this one.  

One more, awesome looking route in Iran. May want to mute if you aren't into trance music. Seems a little novice on the drone operation, but the climbing is still great. 

Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 2,419

Hmm Run out you say? 

This is "Grit, climbing" and a very strong ethic prevails, No pre-top roping if you want credit

Bryce Adamson wrote:

Ummm... he pre-top roped it before the lead. Cool video, though, and scary anyways

https://tomrandallclimbing.wordpress.com/2013/05/

Hey Thank You for that & the link. I just din't think that they would toot the horn, if he had,

 I took the 2nd ascent comment to mean that he had worked it ground up taking that swinging fall into the crash pad, thats all. . .  

I stand corrected! the way the world changes! I wish they had allowed top rope/pre-inspection when I was there.

 

Still looking for this one

"Gibson climbs major new line on Wimberry

Miles Gibson beneath his new route at Wimberry

 The chalk shows the line of Dangermouse, E9

© Ben Heason

Miles Gibson has succeeded on a major new route at Wimberry near Sickbay Shuffle.

 He called the route Dangermouse and gave it a grade of E9 7a

. "You get gear behind a crack (on Bertie's Bugbear) and a flake on the arete. 

That's it though, there is no more gear."

Miles climbed the route   .  .  .   after waiting for the right cooler conditions.

 He had been trying it on and off for  . . .  two months -  but the conditions proved very frustrating

. When it was cool in August it was wet, and since the weather improved, it has usually been too warm.

The steep direct arete below Sickbay Shuffle is one of many 'last great problems' at Wimberry.

 Over the years this wonderful crag has given up its treasures sporadically

 with Kevin Thaw's Sectioned, E8 being the last major new route in 2004.

 However there are still plenty of gaps and perhaps Miles' new route might spur some more interest in this superb crag. 

&

Vy can't ve choost climb und dance?

Bryce Adamson · · Burlington, CT · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 1,392
Michael Schneider wrote:

This is "Grit, climbing" and a very strong ethic prevails, No pre-top roping if you want credit

Ummm... he pre-top roped it before the lead. Cool video, though, and scary anyways

https://tomrandallclimbing.wordpress.com/2013/05/

Bryan K · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 525
Paul L · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 316

Not everyday you see a bat hang while plugging gear.

Max R · · Bend · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 292

That was too sick ^^

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

Awesome!  Looks kind of like Tennessee/WV sandstone.  Where is that?

Jim Schloemer · · North Bend, WA · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 326

^^^that was rad. Dude doesn't like to extend his gear tho!

David K · · The Road, Sometimes Chattan… · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 423
Paul L · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 316
Ted Pinson wrote:

Awesome!  Looks kind of like Tennessee/WV sandstone.  Where is that?

I don't know a thing about the route, the video popped up randomly while watching some videos with my 4yr old today.  

The guy sounds South African, though.   

(edit) Decided to click back through. Indeed South Africa. "...South African climber Joe Möhle make the first Trad ascent of a sport route that he bolted at a sandstone sport crag, The Hole, near Cape Town...The Hole crag is one of a few steep sandstone sport crags that surround Cape Town..."

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

Ha, speaking of Hayden...I’m sure this has been posted at one point, but it remains one of my favorites.

https://vimeo.com/50101783

Rich Farnham · · Nederland, CO · Joined Aug 2002 · Points: 297

Hadn't seen this one before:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HBcaIPUH6N0

Dead Head · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 65

Paul L · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 316

Having never climber the South Platte, holy hell that's an awesome line on an awesome rock in an awesome area! 

I dream of making 5.10 cracks look that easy. 

Caleb Schwarz · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 120

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=372&v=wiiJ7OfdEbk

Just got reminded that I'm a pansy. Cheers.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

Cool video!  Looks like JTree...?  Any idea what the line is?

Brad Johnson · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 0

Looked like a fun route.  Guy likes his chalk!

Max R · · Bend · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 292
Ted Pinson wrote:

Cool video!  Looks like JTree...?  Any idea what the line is?

Did you not read the title of the video?

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