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Northern California ice?

Original Post
Anthony L · · Hobo gulch · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 20

Thinkin about making a trip from dec 15-23. Anyone have any beta on ice or good peaks for winter summit and/or camping? Don't mind long hike. Have all gear. Snowshoes but not skis. 

Thanks!!!

Josh Hutch · · State of Jefferson · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 90

Your profile says  your from Northern Washington so I gotta ask...??... Why would you drive all the way to CA for Ice climbing? Canmore AB is closer, Bozeman is closer still, and one canyon at either location would have more ice then the entire Tahoe area. The east side might be good by then but the weather here has been phenomenal. Still rock climbing in the sun with shorts and a tee shirt. 

Parker Falls, between June Lake and Lee Vining is in. You would be looking at a 4-5 hour approach, 1 way. 

Boy Scout Falls is in, Whitney Portal area. 

Lundy Falls, south of Lee Vining is probably getting close. 

The approach to all of these areas is very dependent on snow. More snow = borderline type 3 fun, specially in snowshoes alone. 

Good luck and if you do make your way down here, post up any conditions you find. 

Anthony L · · Hobo gulch · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 20

Woah. If rock climbing in the sun is a possibility, I'd take beta for that too! We're just headed south and I'm trying to squeeze some climbing in on a non-climbing centered trip. 

Thanks a bunch. 

Cory B · · Fresno, CA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 2,577

NW ridge of Mt Morrison is a fun winter scramble, you don't need skis, easily done in a day. 

North Ridge and/or the winter route on Lone Pine peak are more serious and exciting peaks that can readily be done in the winter. 

Mountaieers route on Mt. Whitney, also regualry done mid-winter. Usually needs ~2 days maybe more depending on how much snow falls. I have snowshoed in, its not that bad. 

Ice climbing will probably be in by mid-Dec. There has not been much snow yet, so approaches might be easy (that could change with 1 storm however!). The ice climbing is not really that great however, its usually ultra-crowded -- full of top-ropes, guides bring big groups out. Not my cup of tea. Try to avoid weekends and holidays, start really early, or really late in the day.

The ice on  Boy scout falls is not crowded, but it a big approach (but worth it IMHO, its nice up there mid-winter)

Its been pretty warm out, my prediction is that you'll be able to sport climb in ORG in fairly comfortable weather

Have fun!

Josh Hutch · · State of Jefferson · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 90
Anthony Lubetski wrote:

Woah. If rock climbing in the sun is a possibility, I'd take beta for that too! We're just headed south and I'm trying to squeeze some climbing in on a non-climbing centered trip. 

Thanks a bunch. 

Where exactly are you heading? Northern CA is a big area!

Anthony L · · Hobo gulch · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 20
Josh Hutch wrote:

Where exactly are you heading? Northern CA is a big area!

Just driving south from Washington with no plans other than seeing friends in SF and climbing. We're teachers with a nice little break. 

Josh Hutch · · State of Jefferson · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 90
Anthony Lubetski wrote:

Just driving south from Washington with no plans other than seeing friends in SF and climbing. We're teachers with a nice little break. 

If the weather stays the same, and all outlooks are pointing that way for the time being. Bring your rock gear and enjoy the East Side of CA. 

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105843226/owens-river-gorge

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105907296/pine-creek-canyon

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105876411/buttermilk-country

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105803484/benton-crags

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105876822/alabama-hills

Enough to keep you busy for a life time! 

Sam Sala · · Denver, CO · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 82

Was back home in Carson City for T-Giving and went for a hike at Emerald Bay...no snow up until about 8,000-8,200'(?) and a gorgeous, short-sleeve and sunscreen kind of day. Gonna have to get cold as balls, and real quick, to snap much into shape by mid-month.

Perry Norris · · Truckee, CA · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 45

Six degrees at Donner Lake when I went to work this morning.

Sam Sala · · Denver, CO · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 82
Scoop wrote:

Six degrees at Donner Lake when I went to work this morning.

Welp. That's cold as balls and real quick, alright. haha

Cory B · · Fresno, CA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 2,577
Eric Fjellanger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2008 · Points: 870

Bring all the gear you own. Ride lifts at Mammoth, tour TJ bowl, climb ice at Lee Vining, sport crag at ORG, boulder at the Buttermilks, hop in a hot spring. Maybe skip SF.

Tony L · · San Carlos · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 832

For rock climbing - Yosemite, especially Cookie and Lower Merced are looking great for the next week. Anything south facing should be excellent. Stuff north facing, not so much. Tommy and Kevin did the Dawn Wall in January 2015 and it was just like this year. We're seeing this high-pressure drought forming weather pattern right now. Could collapse - if so, then it'll start raining. Or it could be this way till March. 

If you can get to the East Side, that's a bit more reliable but a longer drive. Kind of depends if you want volcanic bouldering/sport in Bishop vs. granite in Yos.

120 through Tuolumne is closed until the summer. 

It's probably getting too warm in the mid-day for ice in Tahoe. Depends how you feel about surfing a delaminated ice berg all the way to the ground. 

Sam Bedell · · Bend, OR · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 442

Anybody know what ice conditions are currently in Lee Vining and June Lake areas? Anything in? 

Thanks.

kevin graves · · Mammoth Lakes, CA · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 5

Word is: that Lee Vining penstock won't be running this winter so only 100% natural ice...haven't heard of anyone climbing there yet. June Lake Roadside is in and Horsetail Falls are climbable.

Cory B · · Fresno, CA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 2,577
Tony L · · San Carlos · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 832

Any report on Cold Stream? I'd think it might even possible to mountain bike quite a ways up cold stream canyon.

Cory B · · Fresno, CA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 2,577
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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