Zion "Led By Sheep" - Well Protected or Not?

Was hoping that a recent and/or experienced climber with "Led By Sheep" in Zion could comment on it. I have seen all sorts of descriptions on this route ranging from "Definitely R-rated" to "Well-protected". I will be passing through the area on vacation and was hoping to get an opportunity to do a multi-pitch in one of Utah's beautiful national parks, but most of the stuff in Zion is above my skill level. I typically climb in the central valley of CA (a lot of slab), lead ~5.9 sport and 5.6-7 (route dependent) trad, but I am a bit of a wuss for run-outs (subjective) especially when exposed so I am concerned that LBS might not be a good choice.

Its a bolted slab route...and, although the bolt count is fairly low, most of the climbing is fairly easy.  Can be sandy.  Ok, will be sandy in spots.

Long pitches with a few bolts per pitch.  Yeah, its runout.  Most slabs are.  Maybe its a 5.5 route for 5.8 leaders?  Dunno.  Maybe try to find someone willing to swap leads and see how you feel about it after a pitch or two?

Beau Griffith wrote:

Was hoping that a recent and/or experienced climber with "Led By Sheep" in Zion could comment on it. I have seen all sorts of descriptions on this route ranging from "Definitely R-rated" to "Well-protected". I will be passing through the area on vacation and was hoping to get an opportunity to do a multi-pitch in one of Utah's beautiful national parks, but most of the stuff in Zion is above my skill level. I typically climb in the central valley of CA (a lot of slab), lead ~5.9 sport and 5.6-7 (route dependent) trad, but I am a bit of a wuss for run-outs (subjective) especially when exposed so I am concerned that LBS might not be a good choice.

Why not read the description here, written by the FA-ist?

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106368738/led-by-sheep

From that description:

...I placed four bolts on the first 200 foot 5.6 pitch.

Jeffe led the next pitch with three bolts placed in 150 foot 5.5 pitch. Some loose patches of rock here and there where easily navigated.

The third pitch was probably the crux, 5.7 200 feet with four bolts.

The forth pitch is 5.5 with two bolts in about 100 feet.

 We rappelled back down the route with two 60m. ropes. 

The route was sustained at a 5.5 level with the occasional harder bulges.

Protection        

10 long slings, 2 60m. ropes,  
small nuts and cams to 1"  optional
wide spaced lead bolts on moderate terrain(5.5) with bolt protected cruxs(5.7)

It's runout, but I found it was bolted whenever I wanted a bolt.  You rap the route too, so it's easy to bail after any pitch if you feel you're getting in over your head.

I'll echo C Brooks, my climbing partner was more worried about the approach slab (put climbing shoes on at one point) than the actual climb.  I'd say that it is a comfortable lead in the 5.5 range.  I handed the sharp end to my partner who struggled on the approach and she had no problem leading (I think she did pitch 2 or 3).  We started late in the day, reached the summit just before sunset, and rappelled down the route (bolted anchors) in the dark.  

Cowboy Ridge is a different animal.  Long approach, long route, a few spots of challenging route finding, very remote feeling with no easy way to back off.  Depending on your experience this could be a blast or it could be an epic day with a chance for getting stuck overnight on the top.  Plan on the descent taking several hours and being a touch scary, I wouldn't suggest doing it in the dark as it is easy to get cliffed out.  

I'd say go for Led By Sheep, if you are nervous about it get an earlier start.  The hike in is really enjoyable and if you don't want to do the climb there are lots of side canyons and rock art nearby to explore.  

Another great option in the 5.9 realm is Ashtar Command on Ataxia Tower.  Lots of fun and an easy lead.  The first pitch protects incredibly well and the second (crux) pitch is all bolts.  

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105792804/ashtar-command

Ouuu.. I forgot about Ashtar Command. That's a goodie. Was one of my first trad leads about 15 years 

Led by Sheep has bolts nearby for any of the moves harder than 5.4ish. Sure, lots of 4th and low-fifth runout and a bit sandy. My then-fiance did fine leading pitches as a 5.6ish leader. Our other party was led by an infrequent 5.6 leader who did fine. It's really not that bad. In the event of a fall, I'm not sure a bit of skin scraping along a slab should warrant an R rating. Good, albeit much easier, practice for the backside route up Great White Throne. 

Cowboy Ridge is nice, particularly combining with West Temple. The transition is uber-complicated and easy to miss. But it makes for a full day of scrambling with perhaps 2-3 well-protected pitches harder 5.4ish. I'd recommend being solid scrambling or simuling if you want to make decent headway on the easier stuff. Watchman is good fun too. Perhaps 5.0. 

If you don't like run-outs with exposure, this is probably not for you. Yes, the climbing is easy, but the run-outs are real.

I loved the approach though! Exposed, but beautiful and isolated. I would do the hike up again.

Snow Canyon State Park has some great easy-moderate climbing.

Kari H wrote:

If you don't like run-outs with exposure, this is probably not for you. Yes, the climbing is easy, but the run-outs are real.

I loved the approach though! Exposed, but beautiful and isolated. I would do the hike up again.

Snow Canyon State Park has some great easy-moderate climbing.

+1 for Snow Canyon.  Sunny walls and likely warmer than Zion this time of year.  The routes on Island in the Sky are a little convoluted, but worth playing around.  Plenty of stuff up to 5.10 to get after.  Fantastic and under-used picnic area within walking distance of the main wall.    

I did led by sheep 2 years ago with an old climbing buddy and his cousin, a total non climber. If I remember correctly the climbing is rather easy, but sustained slab. Every pitch is run out, but I wouldn't call it any worse than PG-13 because you're just going to slide if you fall. If anything, the view at the top is worth the hike and climb, which are both easy.

In my opinion, the hike in is very easy, the climbing is super laid back, and overall Led By Sheep is a great option for a climb if you're only in the park for a short time.

Sounds like it might be Ashtar Command for us then...I am definitely not a 5.9 trad leader, but appears P1 is 5.7 - 5.8. Plus, a shorter approach might give us some time to check out Snow Canyon. Thanks all!

Yea i'll also go ahead and advise against Cowboy Ridge and West Temple for that matter.  If you are slightly concerned about LBS than those routes would be way over your head.  Surprised no one is suggesting the easy bolted pitch on East Temple.  I am not suggesting that btw. I think ashtar's first pitch is your best bet for a fun climb in your abilities as an alternative.

I think you could sew up anything on Cowboy or West Temple >5.0 fairly easily. They're more scrambly and route finding than classic climbing like Aires. I don't recall much difficult slab either with the exception of a bit right after the Cowboy crux that may be avoidable.

I think those lower run out slabs on East Temple were harder than the upper bolted pitch and a half. Unprotectable for the most part too. Likewise, I wouldn't recommend it.