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Dolomites beta
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What’s there to climb? I have no idea what there is. Looking for multi pitch Alpine-ish up to grade IV |
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hey zach iam hannes from austria when will you come summer or winter ? |
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Good topic. I wish there was some sort of internet based climbing database where I could get started finding information on routes all over the world. |
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The Dolomites are huge, there´s everything you could possibly want. Even the selected guides run into multiple volumes. |
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Thanks Y’all with the responses. What’s the typical season? Is September in? Any info is appreciated, where to fly into, places to stay, etc. my partner wants to have a multi day hiking element to the trip. Where we would hike all around and tag some routes as well. Thanks! |
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I've flown into Milan but you could fly into Munich if needed (or even Vienna or Venice). Where you stay will depend on time of year. September can be chilly and is somewhat off season but way less crowded. Can be cold up high in September (and snowy/wet) but, if I were going back, that's when I'd go. Typical season is summer. I think at least the last several summer seasons have been kinda rainy, though, according to friends who've climbed there (or tried to) then. One place that's on my radar that I haven't been, but, I hear good things...is the Brenta. You'd probably want to get your lodging in the huts dialed if you knew your trip dates but that spot would punch the hiking and climbing ticket. Really enjoy staying in Cortina and also had fun in Canazei. We hotel'd it. Was in Cortina again a couple years ago, off season, and we stayed in the Hotel Montana again. Nice breakfast. Smallish rooms but clean and conveniently located to restaurants. Town is a great hang. The huts near/at the Cinque Torri are nice. Ditto the ones at/near the Tofana di Rozes. Just depends on what you want. |
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I see that others have pointed you in the right directions for getting more info on the Dolomites, but I want to clarify one important point. You said that you are looking for "alpine-ish", multi-pitch climbs "up to grade IV". It is important that you are aware that "grade IV" means something very different in Europe than it does in North America. In Europe, at least most of western Europe, "grade IV" is a 'technical' grade roughly equivalent (though it varies somewhat from area to area) to 5.5-5.7, while in North America, "grade IV" designates a lengthy--usually full day for 'average' parties, multi-pitch climb of relatively sustained difficulty. Both examples of "grade IV" climbs are found in abundance in the Dolomites--there are even Grade IV, Grade IVs!!!! |
Alan Rubin wrote: Actually for most of western Europe nowadays, the roman numeral IV means pretty much the same as in North America. It's a "commitment" or "engagement" grade. Like see on the (bigger and better) western European equivalent to MountainProject -- CampToCamp.org (c2c) In the old days roman numerals were used for the "international" UIAA rock difficulty grades, but nowadays most (non-German) guidebooks have switched to the "French" sport grades for rock difficulty. So now the UIAA grades are sometimes called "German" grades, because they're seen mainly in German guidebooks and crags (and still some indoor gyms in Germany) -- but nowadays the German guidebooks and gym just use normal "arabic" numerals for their UIAA grades. Here's a great mixed alpine Grade IV route in the Ecrins massif which many MP readers ought to dream for: Dolomites -- here's a famous Grade IV rock route, the Vinatzer on the S face of the Marmolada: Ken |
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Another good place for beta: http://www.bergsteigen.com/klettern#lat=46.638271983945&lng=12.45335&zoom=8&maptype=ts_terrain Really enjoy their topos. Also, with a translated written description, pretty easy to negotiate. Commitment grades are listed in some guidebooks, particularly the Versante Sud ones. What's also common is to list the route length and a "normal" time of ascent. |
Zach Raney wrote: Probably many lifetimes worth of moderate grade IV climbs. We bought a guide book (Classic Dolomite Climbs or something like that), but it might be worthwhile to get something more extensive even if there for a short time. The problem with out guidebook is it often had only a route or two on each formation, but when we actually got to the base there were sometimes numerous routes not listed in our guidebook starting near and crossing over our intended route. We camped in Canazei and Cortina among other places, but if I did it again I might try staying in a hut as the drive into the mountains every morning was often pretty long. Based on what I saw camping at the trailhead/parking lot is cool as long as you're in a vehicle (rent a van?). How long is your trip? Are you only planning on climbing in the Dolomites. |
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This is the low-down on everything we’ve learned after a few Summers exploring the range... |
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Cortina over rated? You're killin' me...(ha ha). Best pizza ever...  Great info! |
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Is anyone from this post planning on being there this July or August? I have 4-5 weeks and I’m planning on spending them in the Dolomites. I’m very interested in the multi day trails because you can add Climbing and via Ferratas to them! The only thing holding me back is not having a solid partner:) |
amrutha renganathan wrote: I will be there from July 12 to Aug 4th. I only have 1 partner for about 7 of those days. physicsfrac at gmail |
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I’ll send you a pm! I changed my dates to 7/27- 8/26! |
