Not sure “getting into trad” would help. Skip the boat and it seems like most of the fall in Indian Creek.
It definitely helps at the New! There are several crags that see very little traffic because not many people come to the New for trad. (which is a huge shame, places like Fern Buttress are absolutely incredible.)
The few weeks I have spent there in the off-seasons I can say for sure that this comic is funny. Chalk all over the bolted and almost no chalk+cobwebs all over the trad lines.
This is why the gyms churning out hoardes doesnt bother me a bit.
You can sport climb on busy weekends at the new and get on classics all day long without crowds. Just not at Sandstonia or Orange Oswald. Even better, just spend your days at Endless clipping and plugging ultra classics.
"What It's Like to Climb at the New if You've Only Ever Climbed at the Red and the Gym."
Pretty accurate. It's much easier to avoid crowds if you climb 5.11 or harder and stay away from the gym-style routes like Narcissus, Starry and Apollo. Slightly OT but the upper meadow used to be super quiet before they grid bolted a bunch of of 2-star moderates. Now it's frequently a shit show.
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