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Al Pino
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Nov 12, 2017
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Boulder
· Joined Feb 2016
· Points: 490
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Al Pino
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Nov 12, 2017
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Boulder
· Joined Feb 2016
· Points: 490
I grew up in the canyon where this crag is. Went back to scout it out to realize its been bolted like a madman. Kinda bummed to be honest.
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Mike Carrington
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Nov 13, 2017
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Centenntial
· Joined Feb 2006
· Points: 2,776
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aikibujin
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Nov 13, 2017
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Castle Rock, CO
· Joined Oct 2014
· Points: 300
You don't have to clip them. It doesn't look like Indian Creek to me.
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Kristoffer Schmarr
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Nov 13, 2017
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Boulder, CO
· Joined Feb 2008
· Points: 838
Aaron Henriquez wrote:Who bolts a crack? Honestly Someone who wanted to produce a more approachable climb.
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Dead Head
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Nov 13, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2017
· Points: 65
Where is this climbing? The only climbing I´ve ever seen is in the dog park on some small boulders and a 30´ formation? You can let me in on the secret.
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Marc801 C
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Nov 13, 2017
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Sandy, Utah
· Joined Feb 2014
· Points: 65
Aaron Henriquez wrote:Who bolts a crack? Honestly It's not that unusual in an area where over 80% of the routes are sport climbs. Not saying that's the case here, but that is one answer to your question.
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Dan Cooksey
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Nov 13, 2017
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Pink Ford Thunderbird
· Joined Jan 2014
· Points: 365
Someone who want to climb cracks but is afraid to place gear.
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Stiles
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Nov 13, 2017
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the Mountains
· Joined May 2003
· Points: 845
Dan hit the nail on the head
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Dead Head
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Nov 13, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2017
· Points: 65
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SenorDB
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Nov 14, 2017
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Old Pueblo
· Joined Apr 2012
· Points: 8,550
Looks like Morrison Crags, my guess is left of the Nautilus Cave.
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ClimbingOn
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Nov 14, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Aug 2008
· Points: 0
That's disgusting. Chop it and patch it, please.
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Parker Wrozek
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Nov 14, 2017
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Denver, CO
· Joined Mar 2012
· Points: 86
Looks like most of the route needs bolts and all the routes next to it are bolts so they put in 3 bolts instead of having you bring up gear. I personally wouldn't chop the bolts, but this also doesn't cause me grief.
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SenorDB
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Nov 17, 2017
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Old Pueblo
· Joined Apr 2012
· Points: 8,550
I’m not buying the rationalizations given so far. Climbing is addictive. Establishing routes is addictive and has its own special flavor. The only way to satisfy the addiction is to do it. Climbing is a selfish sport, we don’t climb for any reason other than it just feels good mentally and physically to do so. Whether the bolts on this crack are a curse or blessing is an aside. The bottom line is whoever bolted this crack did so because it felt good to them, without regard to the big picture or long-standing traditions of the area. A crack has to be in The Creek to be respected/used normally? More accessible? That’s a gear-eating crack that even noobs could plug cams into. At best the Morrison Crags might crest a hundred feet with most of the cliffs less than 80’. There’re trees and boulders (and bolts!) that can be slung to set up a top rope anywhere on the cliff so that even those without leading skills can access the whole cliff. 80% of roped climbs nearby are bolted so these should be too? Because there’s not enough opportunity in Clear Creek or North Table to climb bolted cracks 10 min away? This cliff is covered in cracks. The cracks surround us, flow through us, and binds us to the rock… Oh wait, that’s the Force but it’s still true of cracks at Morrison. There’re horizontal and vertical cracks every couple of feet on this wall. Dozens of just crack protected climbs exist all around this one bolted crack. Morrison has a long history of traditional climbing and bouldering. Chances are that this crack was climbed long ago using one of these methods. The world needs another over-bolted sport or bolted crack climb like it needs another white-bread gated community.
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Derek Lawrence
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Nov 17, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 695
DesertDan - are you sure this is Morrison?? have you gone to verify? Because the rock does not look like Morrison to me. Looks much more similar to Clear Creek gneiss.
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lloyd
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Nov 17, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2011
· Points: 95
The bottom line is whoever bolted this crack did so because it felt good to them, without regard to the big picture or long-standing traditions of the area. And in addition, to take this argument to the extreme, maybe I like taking a big dump at the base of routes. It feels good mentally and physically to do so, without regard to the big picture or long-standing traditions of whatever area I might be soiling. It's not something I'm about to do, but the point I'm making is that, if we all start doing things without regard to the community-determined practices of the areas we climb in, then things are going to go south pretty fast. The whole "I don't want to have to buy gear, carry it, or learn out to use it" is really annoying as well. IMO, bolting cracks is just about being lazy and/or wanting people to pat you on the back for giving them yet another convenient route they're going to climb and then forget. We should aspire to be better, to leave less impact, and do better in the areas we supposedly care about.
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Joey Wolfe
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Nov 17, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jan 2007
· Points: 1,020
This is not Morrison. This is in Evergreen. So alot of what Desert Dan said about the history of this crag does not apply even if I agree with the sentiment behind it. The route climbing at this spot is so-so but the bouldering is good. Neither are a destination though....they are cool if you live or work in the area. Just a handful of routes and problems. Sorry it bummed you out Aaron, I have no idea who did the bolting. I was surprised to see it honestly. They are all kinda weird lines and I know the people in that hood are less than stoked about it. But from what I can tell (opinions on 6 feet of bolted crack aside) it is on open space and legit. I didn't think it was bolted like a "madman" though (bolted similar to Canal Zone i.e. tight), I just thought "Ok, someone spent the time and money to develop THIS?"
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Mike Morin
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Nov 17, 2017
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Glen, NH
· Joined Nov 2007
· Points: 1,350
In my ramblings around Evergreen I know that I've looked up at this cliff before. The perspective is very familiar, but the location is escaping me. At first I thought I might be one of the cliffs on DMP land (Snyder Mountain?), but that doesn't seem right. Someone help me out here, even if it's a private message, I'm racking my brain trying to place the spot.
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Joey Wolfe
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Nov 17, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jan 2007
· Points: 1,020
Mike, I got you bro.....PM sent In all honesty I'm not sure this crag needs to be a secret or what ever but it is fun to resist posting it on MP as long as possible before the inevitable happens.
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Tomaz
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Nov 17, 2017
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Lakewood, Colorado
· Joined Apr 2008
· Points: 5
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Andy Novak
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Nov 17, 2017
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Bailey, CO
· Joined Aug 2007
· Points: 370
Kris S wrote:Someone who wanted to produce a more approachable climb. Maybe people should just stick to the gym if they want climbs to be "approachable". Chop Chop Chop!
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