Red Rocks Multi-Pitch Reccomendations

I know about the FAQ Sticky: https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/106983852/frequently-asked-red-rock-questions-with-links-to-the-answers

I have looked at this post: https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/107297379/red-rock-newbies-recommendations#a_107297658

My question isn't really covered by either:

I am planning a trip to RR in March and am looking for a long (e.g. >7 pitches and >700') multi-pitch climb.  I will be following a guide (TBD), and have been doing a lot of research.  

I have a few multi-pitches under my belt (also with guides).  One was a 12 pitch, 380m, sport route in Switzerland up to 6a+, (https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/360972/en/chatelard-gietroz-cacao-girls).  The other was an 8 pitch, 1100 ft, trad route in Banff 5.6/7 (https://www.mountainproject.com/route/107247310/mothers-day-buttress).

The best I have come up with thus far is Hot Flash (https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106039317/hot-flash), but I am worried it might not be challenging enough.  Of course I would LOVE to do Epinephrine (https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105732422/epinephrine), but I have no chimney experience and it is a very very long day I guess...

Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks

MojoMonkey wrote:

"Rock routes (Trad or Sport) in Red Rock between 5.8- and 5.10a/b with a quality score of at least 3 stars and at least 6 pitches sorted by Difficulty then by Stars" gave me 36 routes...

Spoiled for choice, as they say...thus the request for specific recommendations...

Thanks

John Wilder wrote:

I'd recommend hiring the guide far enough in advance to have a few conversations about your experience, strengths, and weaknesses and then work with them to find a route that best suits your situation.

Also, things to keep in mind about climbing here in March- 

1) it's Red Rock Rendezvous month which translates to a very busy couple of weekends before, during, and after. it's also spring break for most people, which increases the crowds further. 

2) it's spring and the weather can be fickle. Be prepared to bail or have alternate, non-sandstone plans.

I have already begun to discuss with guiding outfit, but I just want to arm myself with as much knowledge as possible.  

1. I will be there March 6th, so hopefully under the wire for the Rendezvous 

2. Thanks!  Point taken

If Hot Flash may be too easy for you, why not consider Frigid Air Buttress, Rainbow Buttress, or  Black Orpheus?

Leslie McG wrote:

If Hot Flash may be too easy for you, why not consider Frigid Air Buttress, Rainbow Buttress, or  Black Orpheus?

Rainbow Buttress looks really great!

I would take a look at Unimpeachable Groping, a 7 pitch, 5.10b sport multi-pitch. Unfortunately I can't say i've climbed more than the first two pitches as we bailed on a cold, windy day last winter, but the position is really nice. It also has a roof section a few pitches up which is always a good time. The hike is a bit long with some uphill bushwhacking, but doable in an hour. I personally can't wait to get back down there and climb it!

Edit: I should mention while its not rated harder than what you've done before (6a+/5.10b) every pitch is a 5.10 pitch. Could be pretty tiring but definitely worth it.

Cheers

My only recommendation would be to have a few options that you're psyched about: a hot sunny day option, a cool cloudy day option and a cold windy day option. Because you never know. 

Dark shadows to the top is by far my favorite 5.8 multi-pitch in Red Rock. You get some of the best rock, none of the worst rock, mostly comfortable belays with a few hangers to remind you you're up high, some crack, some face, some in-between, a beautiful walk off and some interesting rappels (depending on how you do the descent). Sure you've climbed harder, but if you're just looking to get long mileage in with interesting and engaging climbing, your better off doing that than pushing yourself on something like Black Orpheus.

If you've never climbed here, it's a pretty incredible route at the grade, and as a guide if you moved really well on that route I would be more psyched about climbing something like Epinephrine with you in the future.

Dark Shadows, Frogland, Chrimson, Hot Flash are all good! 

Jubilent Song? I haven't done it yet(hopefully soon) but its supposed to be cool....

Aquariam? Only know one person that's climbed it...he said "fun adventure", Im not sure what to make of that..lol 

Inti Watana is great and fits the bill (6a+ = 10c). Not sustained at 10c, but a lot of 9- low 10 climbing. Way more fun than U. Groping (IMHO). No crowds, long-ish approach, easy guiding and I would guess most guides would love to do something "different." Sour Mash or DoWT as a backup plan.

+1 for Jubilant Song. Had some of those, "so you think you're a 5.8 trad leader," moments for sure. And you get to summit. Easy walk back to your packs. 

Tunnel Vision, possibly combine with Group Therapy or one of the other routes right of tunnel vision for more mileage

 Black Orpheus was not hard, and my trad head is not the best. Just leave your big packs at the very bottom, before you start climbing the steep slab. We screwed ourselves. Frogland was a lot of fun! Had some challenges in it. 

I read over all the responses again and took a look at my route "matrix" and have come up with: 

Hot Flash: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106039317/hot-flash

Dark Shadows (full): https://www.mountainproject.com/route/109607912/dark-shadows-full

Crimson Chrysalis: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105732281/crimson-chrysalis

There are all long (e.g. ~10 pitches, ~1000ft), moderate (e.g. 5.8), and have relatively reasonable approaches and descents.  

That being said, there isn't as much info available for Hot Flash.  Can anyone relay the duration and details of the Hot Flash approach and descent (beyond what is easily available online)?

Thanks so much!

What guide did you end up making the trip with?