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Zion Question- Climbs near Narrows Trailhead Parking

Original Post
NJB · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 0

Hi All,

This weekend I am carpooling with a few friends to Zion, me and one other in the party can climb. We were thinking of trying to do some climbing while the rest of the group hikes/wades the narrows. Looking for up to 5.9 trad up to 2-3 or three pitches, or maybe an approachable 5.10 hand crack (I know this is not what necessarily Zion is renown for, but we are both rust and recovering from injury). Logistics wise it would be  nice to go to an area nearish the narrows trailhead. I had a look on MP and noticed some climbs, but did not notice a lot of climbs in our range. Is there more to this area in a guidebook, or does MP have the area pretty well filled out?

Thanks for the help.

Danger-Russ Gordon · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 590

these are the best ones I know of in the area, both are fun and I think fairly rated at 10.a but most of both of the routes felt easier than 5.9.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/108617444/right-toilet-bowl-crack

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105717835/tourist-crack

I cant recal anything sub 5.10 in that area worth doing.  Let us know if your open to other areas and there is likely a route more up your alley. 

Zac Robinson · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 415

Also, it would not be too difficult with logistics if you hop off the shuttle early if you wanted to crag at Cerebus Gendarme.  Still pretty roadside cragging and there might be some more options.  I would aim for the Toilet Cracks though.

NJB · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 0

Thanks for the help guys. I would be open to some other suggestions for more appropriate areas.

Greg Gavin · · SLC, UT · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 888

the cerebrus gendarme is a 2 min car ride or shuttle from the temple of sinewava, and would better suit your needs. Toilet cracks is fun, but it's north facing and will be very cold this time of year.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
NJB wrote:

Hi All,

This weekend I am carpooling with a few friends to Zion, me and one other in the party can climb. We were thinking of trying to do some climbing while the rest of the group hikes/wades the narrows. 

Out of curiosity, are your friends bringing or renting dry suits? The water is dangerously cold this time of year.

NJB · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 0
Greg Gavin wrote:

the cerebrus gendarme is a 2 min car ride or shuttle from the temple of sinewava, and would better suit your needs. Toilet cracks is fun, but it's north facing and will be very cold this time of year.

Would you recommend anything apart from the Cave Route?

NJB · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 0
Marc801 Chrusch wrote:

Out of curiosity, are your friends bringing or renting dry suits? The water is dangerously cold this time of year.

They are renting dry suits. However, as a surfer I spend enough of my life in cold water so I am giving it a miss.

Greg Gavin · · SLC, UT · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 888

Cherry crack, and pitch one of Tales of Flails are both 5.9.

NJB · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 0
Greg Gavin wrote:

Cherry crack, and pitch one of Tales of Flails are both 5.9.

Great thanks for the help. Will check those out.

Sam Keller · · Mallorca, ES · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 30

Just do toilet cracks. Left or right, you won't regret it. One of the most accessible climbs in Zion. 

Sam Keller · · Mallorca, ES · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 30

Also, don't be that guy who climbs on the rocks when they are wet.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern Utah Deserts
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